Tractor Stories

8N Wood Chipping and Discing

2011-05-08T17:58:00.000-05:00

Recently I purchased some new implements for use with the two Ford tractors. They had been on an 18 foot trailer waiting my figuring out how to remove them. I attached a boom to the 8N Ford three point hitch and tying the disc to the boom with a chain, was able to lift the disc and turn it to face off the trailer and then lift and drag the disc off the trailer. Once on the ground, I replaced the boom with the disc and proceeded to start in my garden area which has not been disturbed in years.

The green Coban covers the broken finger I received which chipping Hackberry limbs. In the picture is the very limb which kicked back and got me. My leather gloves looked fine, but my finger sure did not. The 8N Ford does not steer easily on a good day and is very difficult to turn with the wounded left hand. I had to give up the disc operation until the splint comes off so I can better grip the steering wheel.

As a result of this adventure, I am going to restore my 640 Ford tractor to running and add power steering to it. I may then sell the 8N Ford or move it to another property and store it there.

It is a fine work horse and seems as good as new even if it is fifty-eight years old. It is still younger than I am and I am still working.

Tractor Boy

Cub helps tree clearing

2011-05-08T17:39:00.000-05:00

When the weather was good enough to clear and haul some cedar trees, the 1949 Farmall Cub was called to action. It is the perfect size for a small acreage operation. After the trees were cut, I rigged a chain between the tree and Cub to drag the tree to a convenient location for further cutting and then running it through the wood chipper on the back of the 1952 8N Ford tractor. Also, it is very dry and I could minimize fire danger from any sparks by working on ground which was mowed. It worked well and was fun.

Tractor Boy

FW: 8N Ford and Dr Chipper

2011-03-12T13:14:00.000-06:00

This afternoon (Sunday) I trimmed the Crape Myrtle trees in my circle. I decided to use my Dr Chipper attached to my 8n Ford 1952 tractor. I thought this will take about ten minutes to hook up, but I got a chance to stop and add a clutch between the tractor PTO and the chipper shaft. As soon as I started to drive forward and stepped on the brake is when I realized I had forgotten the clutch attachment on the PTO. Know what happens without that clutch? The tractor keeps moving forward.

The Dr Chipper had a bird nest or two in the exhaust shaft, but it worked well as soon as I removed them. The actual amount of brush was twice or more than is in the picture. I filled a wagon about a foot deep which is about 3X5 feet in size. Hearing protection and good leather gloves are a must. Almost free mulch.

Tractor Boy

New Implements

2011-03-12T13:08:00.000-06:00

Today I went to Kempner, TX and got my 18 foot trailer, 5 foot rotary cutter n(“Bush Hog”) and 4 foot plow/disc which were waiting for me already on the trailer. The implements are new. The trailer is used. It has electric brakes and my truck is equipped for that. The dealer had to find a suitable adaptor to plug the trailer wiring into the Nissan Titan towing plug and then I drove them home. Right now they are still on the trailer in the yard while I figure out just how to remove them and place them in a convenient location. I certainly need to learn to back a long trailer.

Tractor Boy

Farmall Cub Switch Replacement

2011-01-15T17:14:00.001-06:00

It was a cold, wet, dreary day in Central Texas. Perfect weather in which to replace the light switch I replaced last week. The first replacement was blowing a 20 amp fuse in less than a second when turned to the farthest right position. Fortunately I had added a separate fuse holder to the circuitry when the replacement did not have a fuse position. I spoke with the nice folk at Farmall Cub Forever and ordered a three position six volt switch which arrived a few days ago. This time I took pictures so you can see what I was doing. Again I replaced one wire at a time. The switch has a protrusion which fits in a notch in the console and I replaced it so the two were properly aligned.

I discovered it was easier to take the console off this time and I did not need a small monkey to reach in the confined space. I did; however, forget that I placed a piece of board between the hydraulic housing and the hood/fuel tank. So when I started up the Cub to see how well it would run, there was an extra part, wooden of course, under the hood. Well… I now have head lights which burn dim and bright. I did not attempt to include the tail light as I am going to put a switch for it somewhere so the tail light is not always on when the head lights are on. What I noticed is that the ammeter, which is in the charging range and steady as can be with the lights off, goes into the discharge range and flutters rapidly and wildly when either dim or bright lights are on. I will seek the wisdom of those who know what that means. It cannot be good.

Tractor Boy

Farmall Cub working

2011-01-10T20:54:00.000-06:00

Believing the original four position light and charging switch was mostly worn out, I ordered a replacement from Farmall Cub Forever. Nice folks with whom to do business. Yesterday I braved the cold here in Central Texas to enter my Tractor Building and replace the old switch. First I placed a block of wood between the hydraulic system and the hood/fuel tank to keep the fuel tank from collapsing onto something and maybe damaging the fuel bowl. Then I proceeded to remove four screws from around the top of the console and two bolts which fastened the console to the tractor body. Much easier to write than to do. There is very little room to move and I do not have a trained monkey to reach in there and turn a wrench while holding something in place. It turned out to be much easier to remove the part than to replace it later, but I was blissfully naïve then.

The choke rod, the hydraulic rod, and the starter rod all had to be disconnected from one end or the other to allow room to move the console back far enough that I could get at the four position switch. The wires were removed from the old switch one by one and fastened onto the new switch. Finally I soldered appropriate ends on a replacement 20 amp fuse holder and then put the new switch were the old had been. The new switch had no fuse holder such as was on the original switch. It seemed prudent to add a fuse going between the same points as had been protected by the fuse in the first place.

Once I had the new switch in place it was time to replace the console on the tractor body and screw it to the hood. Here is where I needed two little monkeys to help me hold things in place and screw or bolt it all down. It took quite a while to complete. Then the three rods were refastened where they go. Time to try it out.

Oh, Oh. As soon as the switch was put in the fourth position (far right) I heard a tiny “tic” and the twenty amp fuse was blown. After two more tries with the same result, I decided to avoid the fourth position and ask someone from the place where I bought it. I did that today and a three position switch is on its way. These old tractors such as my ’49 Cub were modified over the years. It seems I do not need a four position switch because I have a voltage regulator instead of the original “cut out”. I can say I got the lights to work. A final thing I did was to add hydraulic fluid to the hydraulic reservoir. From a new five gallon pail, I pumped for quite a while until it began to flow out of the observation/filling hole. So today I started the tractor and ran it a bit to warm it, the worked the hydraulic touch control lever back and forth at least a dozen times. All is smooth hydraulically speaking. The Cub started immediately and I fiddled just a couple minutes with the choke to get the engine running smoothly. It was forty degrees in that building and the Cub started within a couple seconds. As soon as I could get off the choke, I opened the sliding door and we cooled down to 32 degrees. Brrr.

Tractor Boy

Cub news

2010-11-26T13:44:00.000-06:00

Great news! The fellow who sells and makes run Nancy’s long arm quilting machine and robotics (quite a challenge) came to the house to help Nancy get the robotics working right. He asked whether I wanted help getting my Farmall Cub running and said he would look at it right after he was done with the robotics. Well, he did and began tracing through possibilities. He noted that the choke linkage was not working and the choke was one full, there was water in the carburetor bottom, there MUST be an on-off switch, and once all that was set right, the Cub started and I drove it in the yard. The light circuit fuse is blown so when I replace it, maybe I will have head lights too. Apparently I had simply been flooding the engine if I had any spark at all. I am most happy.

Emily came down and brought two rifles to hunt deer. She got a license last evening and we hope to get to the range before Friday afternoon. Going to get cold here about Thursday morning and colder still for a few days after that. High in the fifties. Brrrr! Low in the twenties above zero.

Just before it got too cold, I took the 1949 Cub for a spin around the yard. It took a few seconds for the engine to warm enough that it did not require choking. The repair to the choke linkage was just the right thing. The fuse to the lights was changed, but still no lights. Previously I had replaced all three bulbs and the lights worked. They quit right after I added hydraulic lift and put the fuel tank back on the tractor. It would have been better for me to have changed that original switch while it was easy to do. Still, Aleia had fun driving the tractor in first and second gear. It is much easier to steer than the Ford 8N. Yes, I am wearing a hat in Ford 8N colors.

Tractor Boy

Deer hunting ammunition

2010-11-26T13:36:00.000-06:00

November 6 2010 was opening day for deer hunting in the part of Texas where I live. I shot two small does from a field near Lampasas. The rifle is a CZ 550 in 6.5X55 millimeter Mauser caliber. I loaded the cartridges with 140 grain hunting bullet. This first deer dropped immediately. The second and smaller deer ran about 70 yards after being hit, then fell over. One thing I do is check beyond the deer to make sure there is no other animal or house in line with the bullet after it passes through the deer.

November 13 I decided to load some 30-06 ammunition so my daughter will have some to shoot a deer or five. I used a premium Nosler 150 grain ballistic tip boat tailed bullet, Lake City MATCH brass which was unfired, CCI primers for the Garand, and IMR 4895 powder. Obviously these can be used in a Garand since that powder is the original Garand powder (new, of course). I made her fifty cartridges so she will have plenty for the range to sight in and have fun, and plenty for the deer. In truth, it takes one shot per deer if one aims well. Loading was sort of fun. I cleaned the brass twice, checked case length for every case, hand primed, and weighed each and every powder charge. They vary plus or minus 1/10 grain from the 47 grain goal. The brass was 1962 surplus I bought at some time or other. I am guessing the bullet will move at about 2750 fps which is in Garand velocity range. Modern deer loads run 2800-2900 fps, but I am certain the deer cannot tell the difference and the range is not more than 305 yards at the most although the deer are typically 60 yards away when shot.

Tractor Boy

Sunday Sortie

2009-11-01T20:35:00.000-06:00

This afternoon was a good time to move the Super X3 mill in its crate away from the door of the Tractor building so the 8N Ford could be put away. Once I remembered I have a perfectly good overhead lift which runs across the tractor bay, it was simply a matter of rigging a couple “straps” to lift the crate. The chains from Wal-Mart were ten feet long which was about three feet too short. Two chains and a towing strap later I was ready to give it a try. The crate lifted off the floor and was then pushed across the bay. This left room for the 8N Ford to return to the bay. Well, almost enough room. It is quite cramped in the bay now.

Soon I will have either a new work table or a Harbor Freight mill stand #47599 to hold the Super X3 milling machine. You can see the little work room is a bit cluttered too. The X2 mill will go elsewhere and the room will get cleaned up.

I am certainly happy the 1952 8N Ford tractor was able to lift the 420 pound crate with it attached to the middle location of the boom. That is one tough old tractor. It starts easily and does the work every time.

Tractor Boy

Back to the blog

2009-11-01T15:45:00.001-06:00

Yes, I am back blogging.

Today I hope to hoist the new mill with my overhead crane/lift and then slide it along. Too much fun. I will take pictures. I do wish I had taken pix of the moving operation yesterday. It was decidedly scary. No injuries and only a few scars to the land from the weight so all was well. I visited Hubert's work room and saw his X3 mill. It is really three times bigger than the X2 we also both have. I need a much bigger table! Maybe I could mount it on the one I have, but it sure could use wheels. I need 17 inch clearance for the base front to back and 27 inch clearance for the entire front to back area (for the column as well as the front handle). The X2 fits on the 14 inch wide table with room to spare as you have seen. I need 39 inches height clearance too. This is BIG, but some people consider it small still. It is easy to have a thousand pound milling machine instead of one which weighs 390 pounds. J

Tractor Boy

Saturday struggle

2009-11-01T07:07:00.000-06:00

Yesterday I managed to use my 1952 8N Ford tractor to haul the 420 pound crate of X3 milling machine to my Tractor Building. It was a challenge because I was unsure the hydraulic lift would be strong enough to lift the crate fastened to the middle of the boom I have for the tractor. It was strong enough; however, a greater challenge was absence of appropriate lifting straps for the task. I had a towing strap about 15 or twenty feet long and used it. To make things better (maybe), I tied the strap around the top portion of the crate with rope. Then to further insure things did not slip, I used a bit of chain with hooks to fasten to the steel straps on the crate. Well, as I started to lift, the tow strap stretched, the steel strap snapped like it was paper, the tractor groaned, I groaned, and the crate lifted off the ground. As we (crate, tractor, me) drove around the house to the back yard where the Tractor Building is located, the soggy ground showed every inch of the trip, the crate jostled, and began to disassemble itself. I backed into the opening of the Tractor Building, lowered the crate, managed to untie from it after some effort, and got the tractor out of the way.

Today I will probably borrow a furniture dolly to somehow put under the crate, disassemble the crate from the base so I eliminate some of the looseness which I now have for the crate, and move it into the work room space. Fortunately the door is large enough. Of course I need to clean the area we will pass through and pick up clutter. If I can borrow a hydraulic engine lift, I will somehow lift the mill onto a stand and then can clean it up. Maybe I will clean it up first while it is still in the tractor bay. That actually seems more sensible to me. Anyway, I will take pictures and post the whole thing to my tractor bog. I forgot to take pictures yesterday while doing this. Maybe I did not really want a record in case a disaster happened. J

Tractor Boy

Running Cub

2009-01-29T10:31:00.000-06:00

‘Tis a fine day in Central Texas. The air is 35 degrees and it is sunny, with a cool North wind. It is a perfect day to go for a drive on the 1949 Farmall Cub. That is just what I did. I saw it had not leaked gasoline anywhere so I disconnected the six volt battery charger and connected the negative battery cable. I managed to touch the battery box while snugging the cable and threw a nice spark which told me both that the battery is charged and to be more careful. Then I climbed aboard using the clever step device dangling from the platform, pulled the choke, pulled the ignition switch, and then the starter. The old Cub started right away and soon I had figured out how to give it just enough choke to keep it going while it warmed up. We backed into the yard and went for a drive ‘round and ‘round we went in second gear, making about five laps of the back yard. I stopped it in the sun to take pictures and to “bleed” the hydraulic system. That thing howled and squealed and scared me quite a bit. Then it settled down and was pretty quiet. I am guessing the air is out of the lines and the inner works are lubricated again.

We drove around a few more times and then back to the Tractor Building. Shift to first gear and slowly through the door to its standing place. I pushed in the ignition switch, climbed down, and shut off the fuel at the fuel filter. It looks good, runs well, irritates the dogs, throws coolant from the broken JB Weld connection, but hold its gas and oil as well as hydraulic fluid and gear oil. It runs!!!! Yes, it is a good day.

Tractor Boy

Nearly Completed the Cub

2009-01-26T06:08:00.001-06:00

Sunday afternoon I took the plunge and added fuel to the gas tank of the Cub. Then I tightened loose connections such as the fuel filter bowl so gasoline would not be dripping. It all seems to be holding. At this time I have perhaps a gallon of gas in the tank to find out whether it will hold properly. Later I can fill it up or at least put maybe four gallons in it.

The hydraulic system needed filling so I removed the filler plug and used the last of the five gallon container that I bought for the 8N Ford. I thought I had another 5 gallon pail or bucket and that turned out to be 90 weight gear oil. Had I remembered that, I would have used it to fill the rear end of the Cub instead of buying gallons of the stuff individually. I moved the 5 gallon container to a location where it is visible in my Tractor building so it will be available for use next time.

Earlier in the week I had painted the fuel cap and radiator cap IH red color. Both were new replacements for worn original items. It looks good.

Finally, after removing the battery box, I cut a one inch hole at the rear of it and added the rubber grommet seen in the photo. To cut the one inch hole I ended up using a small drill bit and drilling holes around the marked one inch circle. Then a Dremel tool was used to cut between the holes and, after a cold chisel finished the cut, a grinding bit was used to smooth the one inch hole. Finally a long round file was used to shape the hole and get to final size. The grommet went on easily. The replacement seven foot long battery cable will be threaded through the hole, run down below by the PTO lever, underneath the platform, up the right side of the tractor, under the hood, and down to the starter.

The final thing will be to get the lights working again. I think it is simply a wire to the switch; however, it is pretty crowded back under there now and very difficult to get to. I did manage to short the starter cable to the ground, make sparks, and burn out the twenty amp fuse. Even replacing the fuse was a challenge, yet I got it done.

Tractor Boy

recent Cub work

2009-01-22T06:54:00.001-06:00

Nearly Complete. It was warm this week on Monday so I got out and put some decals on my JANUARY 1949 Cub which is now 60 years young. I also put the fuel filter in place and attached rubber fuel line between it and the carburetor. I gave up temporarily on putting the metal line on as the exhaust pipe is in the way. If the Cub is returned to the vertical stack exhaust then the metal fuel line can go on. For now it is rubber.

It is just about time to add gasoline to the tank and see whether it leaks at the fuel filter. I used a sealer so maybe it will be good and tight.

While I was adding decals I painted both the radiator cap and the fuel cap. Both are new so I sprayed them with a couple coats of IH red paint.

The next to the last challenge is to cut a one inch hole in the battery box for the proper placement of the new and very long battery cable (negative cable). The box has a large hole to the front and needs a one inch hole to the rear side of the box. It is a work in progress. This week looks good though.

The final task is to figure out how to attach the one point hitch I hauled back from Illinois at Christmas time.

Tractor Boy

Cub Hood on finally

2008-11-28T17:39:00.001-06:00

Today, the day after Thanksgiving, I have the hood back on the Cub for the first time in months. It looks good from a distance. This is the hood for which I have the fuel tank cleaned and relined. That was done with a torch so the entire hood needed to be repainted. The front of the hood attaches to the front uprights with a bolt on each side. The right side was easy enough, but the left side was off enough that I needed a third arm to align the bolt with the hole in the upright. My daughter started the bolt while I was using a hammer to push the upright back and at the same time holding the hood up a bit.

The grill is back on too. I had painted it some weeks ago. Something did not look right still and I realized I have used hex bolts instead of the flat head screws which were used originally. I have a set of them and they can be put on tomorrow. They go on the rear of the hood and on the grill sides. One the grill was on and the hood fastened down, I tried the head lights both on low and on high power. They work just fine as does the tail light. I wonder how many years it has been since this sixty year old Farmall Cub had working lights?

I started to remove the battery and measure for a notch at the rear left side of the box for the copy of an original seven foot negative battery cable. Perhaps tomorrow it will get done. I need to buy another strap so I have two to remove the battery from the box when needed. Wow, it is almost time to put decals on the Cub! Hmm, after I put the fuel filter and a fuel line that is, then put hydraulic fluid into the hydraulic lift and bleed the air from the lines. Almost done.

Tractor Boy

Cub Hydraulics and Electrical

2008-11-27T13:01:00.000-06:00

The past few days and evenings I have been working like a bear to get the Cub operational again. First I removed the auxiliary fuel tank so the hydraulic lift could go in the location where the wooden base of the fuel tank was bolted. Once I had the auxiliary tank off I lifted the rather heavy hydraulic lift onto the space and slid it under the throttle rod instead of removing the throttle rod along with the choke rod. That was a mistake! In taking a short cut I managed to disrupt the electrical system so the lift had to be removed while I sorted out and fixed the problem. The rear light and the front light circuit did not work anymore.

After a long time of fiddling and tightening, the light circuits worked again; however the ignition switch refused to pass through any electricity. It had died. I ordered a replacement along with a metal fuel line and two wing nuts to secure the touch control lift stops. Actually I thought I had purchased those expensive wing nuts earlier and found them when I was putting gaskets on the hydraulic line and hydraulic pump. Before putting the new ignition switch on the Cub I used a trusty ohm meter to ensure the switch was working. Then I screwed the ignition switch onto the dash and attached the wires.

Having become wiser with experience, I removed the throttle rod and put the hydraulic lift back in place. This time, before retightening bolts too much, I made sure everything was working electrically. Then I snugged the ½ inch bolts to the Cub body and re-attached the throttle rod. It is a whole lot easier to write about than it is to do. A trained monkey with small hands would help a great deal on this tractor.

Once the lift was on and the throttle rod on it was time to attach the hydraulic pump. It goes at the base of the front left side of the Cub. There is a cover plate which was removed. A gasket was added to the front of the pump and it was attached to the Cub. The hydraulic lines will only go on if the exhaust pipe is out of the way. I remembered reading that somewhere and heeded the advice this time. The front of the exhaust pipe came off the exhaust manifold easily and by loosening a clamp around the muffler, I was able to move the pipe aside to attach the hydraulic lines. There is a gasket between the lift and the lines, but not gasket between the lines and the pump. I was able to buy the right bolts for the job as I was not given enough of them to complete this phase. It is remarkable that everything fit since this Cub never had a hydraulic lift in its nearly sixty year life. If the exhaust pipe heats the hydraulic lines too much then I will go back to a vertical exhaust which this Cub had for years until someone changed it. Of course I will need to remove the hood to do that work.

The Cub is ready for the hood to be re-attached, front lights hooked up, and fuel filter attached to the hood. Then the metal fuel line can be cut to size and attached. I have two flexible fuel lines too and may start with one of them just for fun. I think I will get a proper sized pipe tap to freshen the threads in the fuel tank, or maybe I will not bother and just use plenty of good liquid sealer to prevent leaks. Once the hood is on and the fuel lines attached, I can fill the reservoir of the hydraulic lift and bleed the air from the lines. Then perhaps another coat of paint and a few days later, decals!!

Tractor Boy

Cub gas tank and hydraulic pump

2008-11-10T13:45:00.000-06:00

Sunday I was going to put the fuel filter and shut off device onto the gas tank of the ’49 Farmall Cub. On the bottom of the gas tank which is an integral part of the hood, there is a brass hexagonal adaptor threaded on the inside. The fuel filter does not fit on this hexagonal adaptor. The shape is different and the size is different. I will ask help from some knowledgeable people to solve this. As soon as I have this solved, the hydraulic lift can go in place. The fuel tank on the hood becomes THE fuel tank for the tractor.

The hydraulic pump goes on the left side of the Cub engine near the bottom. A cover plate is removed so the pump vanes can be put in their place. Two bolts of 5/16X28 and 1 .75 inches long are needed to hold the pump together. Two longer bolts hold the pump to the tractor. I need to buy the shorter one or cut a longer one off myself to fit.

Tractor Boy.

Flushing the Cub Radiator

2008-11-01T15:59:00.001-05:00

This morning I got out and drained the Cub radiator, collecting the fluid in a big bucket from Home Depot. Once that was done I added the flushing chemical and filled the radiator with water then started the engine to run the stuff through for ten minutes. At about the ten minute mark the auxiliary gas tank (fancy name for a used tank from a small lawn mower) ran dry. I let the engine cool down some and drained that concoction into the same large “Homer” bucket, then added a gallon of antifreeze and enough water to fill the radiator.

This afternoon I drove it around for a while, managing to lose one of the battery caps for a time. I drove to the mailbox which is 600 feet from my house then drove to show one of my neighbors the Cub, all told about a half mile of driving. The Cub performed well so I put it back in the Tractor Building to rest while I begin the next phase. That involved painting the hydraulic pump which mounts to the front of the engine. After it dries it will get a second coat and then be attached to the Cub along with the hydraulic lift and the metal lines. The auxiliary gas tank is mounted right where the hydraulic lift goes so it will come off the Cub and the hood with gas tank will go on. I still need to put the fuel filter on the bottom of the gas tank and expect that to be straight forward.

The battery has been resting on a block of wood in the bottom of the battery box. The wood comes out and two straps will replace it so I can get the battery out since I have a one piece battery box instead of the open front which appears to be much more common. I can cut a notch for the correct battery cable which I have, then put all that on and put the top of the battery box in place. Almost done then. Decals to go on the tractor is about the last. Of course that depends on whether the headlights work which would be a fortunate surprise. It depends on the quality of ground between the hood and the hood frame.

Tractor Boy

Cub Rear Oil

2008-10-25T08:38:00.001-05:00

Today I got out to my Tractor Building and put 90 weight gear oil in the two reservoirs near the rear wheels. Previously I made a simple device with a funnel and a large diameter piece of clear plastic tubing to facilitate getting the gear oil around the 90 degree angle of the plug and into the tractor. It surely makes the job less messy. Each half moon reservoir takes 1 ¾ pints of gear oil so that is nearly half a gallon. A long handled half inch wrench removes the plug quickly since the plug has a half inch square indent for just that purpose. I had already removed the hitch to get the half moon parts off and the left plug can only be accessed with the hitch off the Cub. Once the plugs were back on I put the step back on too then cleaned up the tools and wiped the few spills. Oh, it was below sixty degrees this morning so quite cool and the gear oil flowed pretty slowly. That is viscous stuff!

Tractor Boy

Rear Oil Pans

2008-10-20T06:26:00.001-05:00

I went out to my Tractor Building and checked the gaskets on the half moon covers and found the seal is just fine. I do think the one on the new made gasket has a better sticking, but the other is on there good too. I will put the silicon on the top part of the gaskets this afternoon and put them back on the Cub. Then on Monday I can add the gear oil and hopefully have that part fixed. I still need to drain the radiator and put in some chemicals to flush the cooling system. No way of telling whether that has ever been done. The Cub will be 60 in mid January.

I bought some implements from a guy in Kinmundy, Illinois. I got a single point hitch for the rear of the tractor and then a plow and a carrier. The carrier is a box that attaches by the single point hook. The plow also hooks by a single hook. I decided to let the disc go as I cannot haul it back this trip. I still have my incomplete standard disc plow. I have been unable to find parts so far and may just make them. How is that for confidence?

Tractor Boy

Cub Rear Grease Leak

2008-10-18T11:12:00.001-05:00

The gaskets I made for the Cub rear end which hold 90 weight gear oil were leaking. I decided to go ahead and remove the half moon gear cover and put some silicon grease on both sides of the home made gasket. This is the right side gasket and I tore it while removing it. I used rubber cement to attach the gasket the first time. After making a new gasket today I used an automotive (or tractor) silicon sealer. Tomorrow after it has dried I will cut out the center part and apply the silicon to the top side then reassemble to the tractor. After that the left side will be fixed. Once the silicon has had twenty-four hours to cure the 90 weight gear oil will be replaced and I hope all will be well. If this does not actually solve the leak then I may go to cork which was the original gasket material instead of the rubberized fiber material I used. Yes, I could buy replacement gaskets; however, I can make them too.

It has become cooler so it is easy to get out there in my Tractor Building and work. Fall is a good time. Deer season opens the first weekend of November and there is a nice (for Central Texas) buck which escaped me last year. Maybe this year he will be bigger and have a better rack. I hunt with a bolt action CZ 550 rifle in 6.5X55mm which is my favorite cartridge. Of course I load my own.

Tractor Boy

Fire is out; step is on

2008-10-11T15:00:00.001-05:00

The fire is out! Today I decided to use a propane torch to solder the overflow pipe onto the neck of the radiator. Soon smoke was coming from the neck followed by flames; however, the solder was not going where I wanted it to. Using a trick I learned from watching my father handle a carburetor backfire in his automobile, I put my gloved hand over the neck of the radiator and stopped the flames by reducing the oxygen to the flames. Then I started up the Cub and drove it back into the Tractor Building where I used JB Weld to fasten the overflow pipe to the radiator neck. Starting was a real challenge until I finally remembered to pull out the ignition switch. Once I did that it started right up and I used the choke to adjust the fuel until it was running smoothly. Maybe I need a check list to remember the ignition switch.

The 8 inch step arrived today and I quickly figured out how to attach it. It does indeed make it easier to mount to the platform than it is to step that 8 inches higher. I like it already. Very well built too. I bought the step on eBay from Troy Peterson whose email address is farmallpair@aol.com

Tractor Boy

Temple Texas Tractor Show 2008

2008-10-06T18:42:00.000-05:00

I took my granddaughter, Aleia with me to the tractor show in Temple Texas. It is held the first weekend in October each year. I saw many Farmall tractors as well as John Deere. There were oldies like the huge Case and the Oil Pull. There were more rare ones like the BF Avery. Watching the tractors drive by and hearing their engines was wonderful. Aleia wore out after an hour which was maybe one fourth of the sights to be seen so we went home. Still, it was a good day! I got to see some cultivators on Cubs. There was what looked like a reducer on one Cub PTO. The Cub PTO is opposite all others in rotation and revolves at 1800 RPM instead of 540 RPM.

Tractor Boy

Cub Runs Again

2008-09-15T22:44:00.001-05:00

This evening at twilight I opened the doors to the Tractor Building. The Cub started right away and with a little adjusting of the carburetor and throttle it warmed enough to keep running (on the third try) so I backed out of the building. I took a few pictures of the tractor as it ran. Among them is a good picture of the carburetor showing the choke on the left and the idle adjustment on the top right. Even more important is the one showing the oil pressure gauge with its pointer to the far right. Seems like plenty of oil pressure. Actually it is enough that it forced a bit of oil around the copper washer on top of the oil filter case. Another important picture shows the ammeter indicating the generator is charging the battery. Note that the generator and light switch is set on H for “high charge”. When set on L “low charge” it was not noticeably charging at the particular engine speed. The other three pictures show the running Cub (engine is running, anyway). The makeshift bracket for the coil is clearly visible. The left front view seems to indicate the fan is not turning; however, the reddish blur below horizontal fan blade is another fan blade. That engine is running right along.

Shifting into second gear I drove to the side of the property where I have a few gas containers. A near tragedy happened there. I shut off the engine to add gasoline to the little plastic lawn mower tank mounted above the clutch housing. When I began to pour the gasoline, I noted a split in the neck of the pout spout – just as gas splashed onto the hot exhaust pipe with a loud hiss as it met the pipe. Quickly I stopped pouring and waited for disaster. When it did not catch fire, I removed the neck off the gas container and poured directly into the little gas tank. Once that was done, the Cub started up and I drove it through the front yard, around the West side of the house, and back to the Tractor Building. Slipping the gear shift to first gear and advancing the throttle, the little Cub easily climbed the incline and returned to its place beside the bigger cousin 8N. Shutting off the ignition, I climbed down from the platform and shut off the fuel line. Except for the near disaster it was a great experience. The more I use this Cub the better I like it.

Tractor Boy

Sunday is Cub Day

2008-09-14T22:24:00.001-05:00

Last Sunday afternoon, just before going off on my last TDY trip as an Army officer, I decided to adjust the carburetor on the ’49 Cub. The manual states it to be a simple job. Just turn the adjustment to one revolution, run the engine until it is warmed up, retract the throttle and then turn the adjustment either in or out until the Cub engine runs smoothly. Advance and retract the throttle to check the adjustment. Simple; however, the engine died and was difficult to start. Once again I had forgotten to pull on the ignition switch. Finally, after fiddling with the adjustment a while and getting the engine to stay running, I drove the tractor into my Tractor building and shut it down. I was quite concerned that I was going to have to push the Cub into its parking place which is difficult to do. Usually I use the 8N Ford to push the Cub into the building. Fortunately I did not have to.

Today, a week later, I had charged the battery, tightened the negative cable on the battery, and was ready to try again. Instead of pushing the tractor out of the building, I decided to start it in the building with the sliding door open. I pulled the ignition switch, pulled the choke to full on, and pulled the starter ring. The Cub started up in about four seconds. Putting the choke at half choke (the carburetor is designed for this) helped the engine to run as it warmed up. Then I pushed the choke off and listened to the engine run quietly under no load. No smoke from the exhaust and no roughness in the sound. I shut it down, happy as can be. We are approaching the end of the refurbishing. In the near future I will push the tractor into the yard, run the engine until it is warmed up, and again adjust the carburetor. Once it is okay, then the Cub will go to the radiator repair man for soldering the overflow tube into its place. Once that is done, he can flush the radiator. Only then will the hydraulics be put on, filled with hydraulic fluid, and tested. The fuel filter will go on the tank and the hood will be put back on the Cub. Finally, decals will be put on and the front lights will be tested. I may have to use the ground wires on the electrical cable if the lights are not adequately grounded though the hood and frame (hood supports?). I am about ready to find some implements!

Tractor Boy

Farmall - More Finishing Touches

2008-09-06T13:31:00.001-05:00

Yesterday morning I removed the Cub carburetor and carefully bent the part of the float which lifts the fuel needle valve. That stopped the fuel leak later when I started the engine again. After the carburetor tweak, I removed the gasket from the oil filter case and made a new gasket from some gasket material. I have three types and used the fiber material which is not spongy. That stopped the oil leak from the top of the case.

Next I received two packages with mostly electrical parts. The dust cover for the distributor came so I put that on. Light bulbs came so I decided to put them on. At the same time I cleaned the reflector edges more so good ground could occur. When I turned on the rear light, nothing happened. Using a multi-meter, I found the switch was good and the negative side of the circuit was good. It turned out to be the ground connection. Eventually I found that the post from the battery box on which the rear light mounts was grounded so it had to be somewhere on the light itself, probably the collar which attaches to the post. With sand paper and a round metal file, I removed rust and paint from mating surfaces and finally had a tail light working when the switch was turned on. The wires to the front lights are good. So far I have not determined whether the ground connection of the front lights is good although I can do that without mounting the hood on the tractor. I will probably do it just to be sure.

Today the spark plug wires will be removed, painted red, and inserted through the grommet atop the engine where they are supposed to be. Also, my home made battery box hold down devices will be painted – red, of course. The clutch may need adjustment, and the Cub needs to be lifted at the rear so I can test the brakes and adjust them properly. The Cub uses band brakes which should be easy to adjust. I have decided to let an expert silver solder the radiator over flow pipe.

Tractor Boy

Farmall Carburetor and Ignition Knob

2008-09-05T08:49:00.001-05:00

The carburetor was dripping gasoline yesterday after I stopped the engine. The leak is somewhere among three parts – the float, the needle valve which the float moves, and the seat for that needle valve. I drained the gasoline from the carburetor and cleaned the seat, the needle, and then adjusted the float so it has a bit more upward pressure on the needle. When I run the Cub again I will find out whether the adjustment was enough. The idle adjusting needle (there is only one adjusting needle on this simple carburetor) is open 1 ½ times. I will check the manual to learn whether that may be too much. I recall reading it is opened one full turn and then adjusted once the engine is warmed up.

Today I remembered to put the ignition knob on the ignition switch. The operating instructions are written on the face of the knob using an indelible marker. The knob screwed right on and I snugged it by holding the stem of the switch with needle nose pliers as I rotated the knob. It is tight and works just as it should.

The fuel line was too close to the curved tail pipe so I used a couple of twist’em ties to move it along the engine away from the exhaust pipe. I do not want the hose to lay against the exhaust and melt thus spilling hot gasoline on the hot exhaust. That might be too exciting.

Once I can borrow a trailer, I can take the Cub to Oscar the radiator man in town who can silver solder the over flow tube from the radiator. I am not ready to use a torch myself. Too many bad memories from the Vietnam war. I will have Oscar flush the radiator too. I could do it myself; however, he has 25 years experience and likely has access to chemicals and knowledge which I do not have.

In the next two days electrical parts will arrive so I can replace the light bulbs and lens gaskets for the three lights on this old Cub. The tail light will be the first to be tested as it is on the tractor. The other two lights are on the side of the hood which will not be put on until the radiator is repaired and the hydraulic system mounted. That last requires the hood to be out of the way.

Tractor Boy

Driving the Cub

2008-09-04T18:15:00.000-05:00

Today I DROVE THE ’49 CUB!

After I made the knob, but before I put it on (more about that) I pushed the Cub out of my Tractor Building and put some gasoline in the test tank. I climbed onto the seat, pulled out the choke ring, put the throttle at about 1/3, and pulled the starter ring. The engine turned and turned, but no starting. After a while I remembered that I had not pulled out the ignition switch! As soon as I did and pulled the starter, the little Cub started. Smoke poured out the exhaust and soon oil poured out of the top of the oil filter case. I shut it down and got a ¾ inch wrench to snug the bolt on the oil filter case, then climbed back on the seat. The Cub started as soon as I pulled out the ignition switch and then the starter ring. Putting the gear shift in reverse, I backed away from the Tractor Building, then put her in second gear and drove about 250 feet before the engine stalled. Once I increased throttle, that did not happen again and I drove around the yard a few times, trying various gears. Since I had put a safety cover on the PTO, I asked my five year old granddaughter to tell me whether it was running. As I engaged and disengaged the PTO she told me whether it was turning. It turned when it was supposed to.

With a bit of more driving I took the Cub back to the Tractor Building and drove in. There is fuel dripping from the bottom of the carburetor and I probably need a new gasket for the oil filter case. The radiator over flow needs to be soldered back on. Water did come out there at the top of the radiator neck. The smoking engine is not yet a concern since I had put a tablespoon of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and that may be what is causing the smoke. I am very happy that my old Cub which is just four months shy of its 60^th birthday is running once again. Later I will put that knob on the ignition switch. My wife wrote the instructions on it – Pull On Push Off.

There was no ignition knob on this Cub when I bought it. I could buy one, but decided to make one today. I cut off a 1 inch diameter piece of 6061 aluminum, chucked it in the lathe, faced it, and turned the end down to about 0.45 inches. Then I center drilled it and using a #25 drill bit, drilled about 3/8 inch deep. Using a 10-24 tap and a centering guide I threaded the hole. Following that I used a long file to round the edges and used a cut off tool to cut the end off. Once that was done I reversed the knob and faced the big end then used a file to round the edge. Nancy wrote the words on the knob. I will put it on tonight.

Tractor Boy

Test Fuel Setup and Coil

2008-09-03T22:39:00.001-05:00

The test fuel tank was in place and now the line is on the tractor. I put a petcock in the line so I can control fuel availability to the carburetor. On the carburetor itself there is a 5/16 threaded end to a ¼ inch hose attachment. Tomorrow I will add gasoline to the tank and start the Cub.

The coil on this Cub was attached to the inside of the hood. Since the hood is off, I cleaned the mud from the two 5/16X18 threaded holes on the distributor and made a mount for the coil. I had some left over 5/16 thick aluminum which I milled a bit to make it look nicer and get rid of some very ugly edges. I used an end mill to cut holes for bolts, then used a tap to clean out the two holes on the distributor and attached the mount and then the coil.

Original spark plug wires were dirty as well as yellow. I used a Dremel tool to clean inside the part which goes on the spark plug, and sand paper to clean the other end. The ohm meter showed the wires have about the same resistance. I will give them a try. To help further, I put dialectric grease on the threaded portion of the spark plugs and on the top of the plugs too.

Water was low in the radiator so I added some up to about a half inch below the neck of the radiator. The over flow tube is broken away from the radiator. My soldering gun was not hot enough so the tractor will get to a local radiator mechanic. He can solder the tube and flush the radiator too.

The seat was reattached, tools were put away, and the charger was put on the battery. It is an automatic charger and probably has the battery fully charged by now.

Tractor Boy

Farmall Touch Control and test fuel tank

2008-09-01T21:02:00.001-05:00

Much of the day was occupied creating a test fuel tank for the ’49 Cub. I used a piece of 2X4 for then base, then discovered the ½ inch bolts were too short so I sliced the 2X4 in half. Ultimately that resulted in the tank being almost ¼ inch too low so it rubs the throttle. I could shim the base, but it is easier to just raise the tank a tiny bit. Tomorrow I will run some fuel line and add the petcock to shut off fuel. The little lawn mower tank is plenty big enough for testing the Cub.

I cleaned the points in the distributor and used some white lithium grease to lubricate the cam and the pivot point of the points. I ordered the cover and gaskets for the points – they were missing. I do have a spare kit to refurbish the distributor. If need be I will use it.

The Touch Control is cleaned (a relative term), primed, painted, and now installed on the Cub. I cleaned the bolts and the sockets they enter using my taps and dies. Then, typically, I grease the threads using good lithium grease. It certainly makes it easier to remove the bolts later when I need to. The hydraulic lift is operated by the Touch Control. Once the engine is running, I can remove the test tank, put the hydraulic lift on the Cub and fill it, then put the Cub hood and its fuel tank back on the body of the Cub. I have a few electrical parts coming to refurbish the lights. Not more than an hour’s work – maybe.

Tractor Boy

Farmall Cub lights, distributor, hydraulics

2008-09-01T12:49:00.000-05:00

The past few days I have been busy with the end projects for the 1949 Farmall Cub. I cleaned and painted the hydraulic lift. It took two days of fairly steady work with two steel brushes, a screw driver, a rotary paint scraper, and finally washing with kerosene. Then I primed and painted the lift. The screw driver was used to scrape away some of the old dirt and grime. Everything else was too. I ordered the two gaskets needed for the other parts. Finally I attached the Touch Control frame to the steering column post at the throttle location.

The Touch Control lever goes just beneath it. The Touch Control lever stops both had broken off wing bolts stuck in them. I soaked them in Kroil over night and thought I could center drill the bolts and use an easy out; however, in the past I have never been able to use that tool successfully and today was no exception. Finally I chucked the stops in a my machine vice and used my milling machine to center drill through the bolts using a #25 drill bit. I was right on center with one and slightly off with the other. A few seconds with a 10-24 tap and the holes were re-threaded.

The lights have been challenging. All three bulbs were burned out and I was unable to find the six volts bulbs here in town so I have ordered them. I also ordered the rubber grommets which go between the glass and the reflector, and one center wire and spring because one spring seems broken. I re-threaded the 8-32 screws which hold the light collars in place, then primed and painted the collars. Finally I cleaned up the contact surfaces inside and outside the light housing, getting rid of as much rust as I could.

The distributor has corrosion on the center post where the cam is. Also the gap between the points is greater than the .020 it is supposed to be. I could replace the points; however, they look okay. I want to use a point file to dress the points a bit, then the proper gap will be set. I ordered the missing parts which are all related to covering the points to protect them from dust and dirt.

Finally I made a wooden frame to attach where the hydraulic lift goes – on top of the clutch housing. I found some fairly soft steel and used the metal band saw to cut two pieces so I could slide the auxiliary gas tank onto tabs and hold it in place. The whole stand is drying after being screwed together over Gorilla glue. Maybe later today I can attach the fuel line, fuel shut off petcock, and try to start the engine. SEARS had an automatic battery charger in 6 and 12 volt and, after adding filtered water to the new battery, it charged the battery in a few hours.

Tractor Boy

Cub Valve Tappets

2008-08-28T21:22:00.000-05:00

Today I cleaned off the valve access cover and the side of the engine where the cover was. It took me two hours to get that old gasket material off. There was also some squeeze tube gasket material along with the cork. I used a stiff wire brush, sharp pry bar and a dental pick to get it off, then primed and painted the cover. The tappets are adjusted by using two small wrenches. The #1 spark plug is removed and the engine cranked (I have a Ford crank) until compression is felt, then the pointed on the left side of the engine is aligned with the notch on the fly wheel. At first I did not follow that plan exactly and the valves were open at #1 cylinder so I could not get the .013 feeler gauge in place. After a while I figured it out and found most of the tappets were close to where they should be. I tweaked a few. One of the nice things about these old Cubs is the firing order is cast into the engine – 1-3-4-2. The engine is revolved half a turn following the first cylinder. I just followed the firing order and completed the adjustments.

While doing this section of the tractor refurbish, I discovered the engine serial number – in the 60,600 range – and the casting date. The year was coded with a letter. My old Cub engine was manufactured in October 1948. I believe the tractor was assembled in mid January 1949.

Since I was waiting for paint to dry, I removed the access covers to get to the commutators of both the generator and the starter motor. They look okay to me so I just used compressed air to blow out dirt, then I proceeded to clean up the threads on the small screws and nuts which hold the access covers together. At this point I am waiting for paint to dry on the cover for the starter, and making a new liner for the generator cover. The old one fell apart in my hands.

The new battery is in the refurbished battery box. It is sitting on a piece of 4X4 so I can remove it easily. As soon as I can get to a suitable store I will get some flat tie down material to cut it for a means to remove the battery when it is all the way down in the battery box. This particular battery and another I saw have no lifting handle – so I will make one.

Tractor Boy

Battery Box Reassembly

2008-08-27T09:56:00.001-05:00

The paint is dry on the battery box and tool box so I reassembled them to the tractor. The tool box was easy, just one bolt which I greased well. The battery box was almost easy. Since the ground wire from the battery attaches to the side of the battery box, I used a Dremel tool to remove the paint around the bolt holes in the box. A different bit was used to clean and polish the lock washers. One of them fell and is still hiding so a flat washer was drafted to replace it. Dielectric grease was applied to the bolts and washers before putting them through the bottom of the battery box into the tractor. Next the ground cable was removed and cleaned along with its bolt and nut. It will go on once the paint dries which I sprayed where the cable had been after masking the hole itself so a good contact could be made. The ohm meter was attached to the edge of the ground cable bolt hole and then to a bare place on a bolt elsewhere at the rear of the tractor. The reading tells me there is a pretty good ground pathway. Once the paint is dry where the ground cable goes, it will be put on with dielectric grease too and checked for continuity with the ohm meter. There is a wooden piece which goes beneath the battery in the battery box. I brushed it well with a steel brush and then primed it.

The negative battery cable goes from the battery, beneath the tractor platform, through a holding clamp at the base of the right side of the instrument panel, and connects to the started switch atop the starter motor. The cable I have is thirteen inches too short to go where it is supposed to so I will try to buy a longer one today along with a good six volt battery. Although I have not yet cleaned the commutator of the starter motor and the generator, I want to find out whether the starter will turn the motor (which I can turn with the hand crank).

The Cub still needs the valves checked for adjustment, the distributor needs a once over, spark plug wires may need to be replaced (I have a generic kit for that), and the commutators need cleaning. I bought a well used small fuel tank which needs some sort of fuel shut off. Somewhere in this process I will make a frame to hold the tank which will bolt to the hydraulic lift area. Most of the hydraulic lift and its pipes still need to be cleaned and painted. I think that is about it and the tractor will look good, smell good, and hopefully run well.

Tractor Boy

Sand Blasting

2008-08-26T11:41:00.000-05:00

Today I used my sand blaster for the first time. Yesterday I removed the battery box and broke off two bolts in the process. Since I had some 3/8-16 bolts, I cut off the ends of two and made replacement bolts. Getting the old bolts out was a challenge so I used a 3/8 drill bit to enlarge the holes so The bolts would move freely through the riser blocks and not get stuck again.

As soon as I started sand blasting I realized a full face mask was necessary as well as a breathing mask. A NIOSH 95 mask works just fine for this fine sand. The full face mask protected my face, and I placed my glasses at a safe distance so they did not get scratched. The sand blaster works pretty well. Perhaps with aluminum oxide instead of fine sand, the rust would have come off faster. Still, I got it done. I even brushed the rust from the platform and back of the tractor then painted it red.

Once the parts were blasted, I wiped off the dust, primed with a rust inhibitor (except inside the battery box where I forgot to do that) and painted with the high quality Tractor Supply rattle can IH Red. One of the pictures shows the lever of the Touch Control. The rest of the Touch Control parts are not going to be sand blasted because I do not want to risk getting fine sand into the orifices and wear the hydraulic parts. I will use a steel brush and maybe a brush on a rotary tool to remove rust then prime and paint.

www.TMtractor.com is a great place to do business for Cub parts! The site is well designed with easy movement between sections and lots of good pictures. They even have pictures showing where some parts go on the tractor. The best surprise was the speed with which my order was processed and in the mail on its way to me. You order on line and they send an invoice via email. Once I paid for the products they sent me an email stating payment received AND the package was in the mail. I will definitely buy from them again!

Tractor Boy

Sand Blasting pics

2008-08-26T11:40:00.000-05:00

hot day

2008-08-25T13:42:00.001-05:00

I removed both the tool box and the battery box from the Cub today. My air wrench removed the head from two of the four bolts. I actually got them off the tractor and removed one of the broken off bolts. I am soaking the other with penetrating oil before putting it in a vice and seeing whether I can get it off without too much more trouble. They each broke off in a flat steel riser so I could turn that off the tractor body. J

I am getting ready to sand blast for the first time. That could be interesting. I have a breathing mask to wear and will wear leather gloves too. No sense in cutting myself to ribbons with the sand blaster gun. Air compressor is working just fine today. Of course it is hot here in Central Texas so I am perspiring profusely.

Tractor Boy

still to come

2008-08-23T18:05:00.000-05:00

The Cub:

Nearly done!!!

I could probably reinstall the steering wheel any time now.

Today I bought a set of proper spark plugs ( Champion D-21) and gapped them .024 which is close enough (I have seen anywhere from .023 to .025)

It is time to build a platform for the auxiliary fuel tank I got used today so I can test the Cub without installing the hood. I will make the platform of wood and mount it to the location where the hydraulic system should go. I need a shut off valve for the fuel and a means to attach to the carburetor. Not a difficult task to complete.

The commutator on the starter as well as the generator need cleaning, I am sure.

The valve gap needs to be measured and adjusted if needed.

The points want to be examined. I have replacement points and rotor.

I can buy a six volt battery from Car Quest. It will just fit and is a 650 CCA power house. It means getting a different ground wire and grounding to a different location than inside the battery box although it will just fit in there with the present location of the flat ground wire (inside the battery box).

The battery box is hoping for a sand blasting and new paint inside once I figure out how to remove it from the tractor.

The cable from battery negative to the starter switch needs to be re-routed beneath the platform where I sit. Now it is on top and was placed in the loops which are for the starting crank.

The bottom of the instrument panel seems torn and could stand to be brazed. I may let that go for now since it would mean disconnecting a lot of stuff to get it free of the tractor.

Once it is running, I will clean and install the hydraulic lift, called a Touch Control by IH. The touch control itself needs sand blasting and painting. The rest must be done by hand to prevent any fine sand from entering the hydraulic system which would eventually spell disaster.

Tractor Boy

Cub wiring

2008-08-23T13:31:00.001-05:00

The wiring harness of the ’49 Cub is now replaced along with two other wires. One of them went from the GEN terminal of the Cutout Relay to the A terminal of the generator, while the other went from the distributor to one side of the coil. The first was too thin, about 20 gauge so I replaced it with ten gauge wire. The second was old and also seemed thin so I replaced it too with a bit thicker wire. When I put on the ends to the wire, I do what I learned from my father which is to solder the connection in addition to crimping it.

The wiring diagram in the owner’s manual did not match what was actually on my tractor. It seems the old Cub has a Cutout Relay instead of a Voltage Regulator and all my standard sources displayed the VR. Once again the Farmall Cub Gurus of www.yesterdaystractor.com helped tremendously. The best help was to a site set up by Farmall Bob which had diagrams of the electrical system of old Farmalls. One was exactly what I had in front of me. As I replaced each wire, I cleaned each contact and added a washer wherever there was none, then I used my ohm meter to verify that every wire was making good contact at each end of the circuit.

In 1949, at least some Cubs had a four position light switch just like mine. The positions were labeled L H D B which stands for “Low charge”, “High charge”, “Dim” and “Bright”. I have now color coded my diagram to match the color of wires on my wiring harness. It has been a good two days. A bonus was referral to another helpful site www.farmallcub.com which has helpful information in its forum, including a “book” on line with helpful hints. I started reading there and have learned something already.

Tractor Boy

Thursday

2008-08-21T13:57:00.000-05:00

Today I began the wiring adventure. It is going to be a slow process. I verified the ignition switch is good, using a trusty ohm meter. Since it is good, I will make a knob for it. I have some thick plastic and can cut a piece, turn it on my lathe, drill and tap it for the thread size (once I determine that). I was going to use aluminum but decided plastic was safer; however, I may go back to aluminum as I have plenty of that too. I cleaned the wiring connections for the one pole of the switch using emery paper. Then I verified the next wire was good too so will likely not replace it, just clean the contact surfaces. All this took me a half hour. I am confident that, one wire and contact at a time, this job will be professional when I am done.

Tractor Boy

Cub wheels

2008-08-19T15:45:00.000-05:00

The past few days I have been working to remove the steering wheel of the ’49 Cub so I can replace it with a new steering wheel. First, I tried squirting it with Parts Blaster (PB) for a few days, several times a day. Then I tried striking the forward side of the spokes with a brass hammer. Finally I got some washers to protect the center of the steering column and used a two pronged gear puller and still more PB. The wheel is almost off. It is soaking in yet more PB. Later I think I can get it off.

The wheels are held on by 7/16X20 wheel bolts. Half of them are corroded near the hex head. If I can buy replacements, I will replace them. The better ones were all refurbished with a proper size die. I also used a tap to clean all ten bolt holes on the wheel hub. The lower set of bolts in the pictures shows the corrosion.

I used one of the bolts to provide leverage with a wooden 4X4 so I could remove the center cover and get to the cotter pin and nut holding the bearings in place. By removing the cotter pin I could easily unscrew the hex bolt to clean the inside of the hub as well as the bearings. The bearings, both inside and outside look good. The gap apparent on the inside bearing is the same on both right and left sides of the front wheels so I know it has not lost a roller. I watched how my father repacked wheel bearings by hand and used the same method to repack the bearings. Then I reassembled both hubs with bearings and plenty of grease, cleaned it all with kerosene, and painted with IH red from a rattle can. I am pleased with the work.

There is one place left to lubricate. It is the fan hub. The screw circled in the picture is supposed to be a hex head bolt. It will be removed if I can get it out. Then motor oil is inserted through the hole closed by the screw. The engine is rotated using the hand crank 9for my Ford tractors) until the hole is down at the bottom and any excess oil will drain out. I will replace the screw with a proper bolt and lubrication is done for now. Next will be to replace all the wiring.

Tractor Boy

Farmall Cub greasing efforts

2008-08-15T18:24:00.009-05:00

Today I continued progress on the ’49 Farmall Cub. This morning at six a.m. I was out in my Tractor Building making a new gasket for the right rear wheel pan which I had removed, cleaned, and painted yesterday. This time, learning from the previous attempt, I used sharp scissors to cut out the gasket from the pencil marked material. Again it was glued to the metal using rubber cement. Also, yesterday, I removed the small plugs in the distributor and found that 1/8X27 NPT (fine?) grease zerk was just right. I bought one, greased the two parts, and replaced the plugs.

Before putting 90 weight gear oil in the two rear pans, I lay under the tractor and inserted the grease gun tube into the clutch housing then put several squirts of grease in the zerk located there. I hope I put in enough as I am not sure I saw where it came out. Once that was done I used a big half inch wrench to remove the filler plugs from the wheel areas above the pans. I made a filler funnel using some clear plastic tubing with ½ inch ID (shown in the picture with the filler plugs). Each pan received 1 ¾ pints of gear oil. The right one probably had ¼ that amount in it and it was again black as could be, just like the oil on the left.

It was a good day. I finished by removing the steering wheel nut and soaking the threaded portion with PB. So far it is stuck fast. There is a key that holds the steering wheel in one place on the shaft. A day or two of PB and brass hammer strikes may free the wheel so I can put on the new one. Once I get the old one off I will paint the new one red on the metal parts. Tomorrow is probably a good day to start replacing the electrical wiring. I have a new wiring harness and plenty of other wire, plus I have an ohm meter and confidence I can do this part well.

Tractor Boy

2008-08-14T07:15:00.001-05:00

pan gasket

2008-08-14T07:13:00.001-05:00

Yesterday I bought some rubberized gasket material to make home-made gaskets for the rear wheel pans. I decided to work on one at a time and this is the left side. Rubber cement was used to hold the gasket to the pan, and a sharp knife cut the gasket. As I started to put it back on the tractor there was some old gasket material clinging to the tractor which needed to be scraped off. Everything went on as smoothly as can be while I am lying on my back beneath the tractor and reaching around the gear wheel and the pan itself to insert and tighten the bolts. Ten bolts later, I snugged them a bit at a time to get fairly even compression all around. This pan is ready for gear oil. It will wait until I get the other off and cleaned up.

Tractor Boy

Farmall Cub rear wheel pan

2008-08-12T17:09:00.001-05:00

Today I decided to start cleaning the rear wheel pan. There are two. I started with the one on the left side. Ten bolts hold the pan to the tractor. It is supposed to be filled with gear oil to a point about an inch above the joint where the pan joins the Cub rear end. It wasn’t that full. The liquid was black just like the gear oil for the steering. This was a dirty, dirty job. After I got it off and dumped, I used a kerosene spray to begin cleaning the pan. Also, I flushed the inside of the area where the pan goes. I have a cleaning tank with some sort of corrosive liquid. The pan was immersed in it and scrubbed. After dipping in water to dilute the cleaner, I wiped it off, scrubbed it with a stiff steel brush, and primed it then painted it red. Somewhere in the process the bolts were cleaned of old dirt and crud.

The last picture is the tan colored grease that came from the transmission. Since I have found no other evidence of water in the system, I am concluding the Cub was not dunked or driven through water. I have to wonder though whether the grease was changed since 1949. The gasket fell apart so I will buy some gasket material (it looks like thick paper), A 5/16 inch hole punch to cut the bolt holes, and make my own gaskets. I was successful making a cork gasket for the air cleaner. Earlier this afternoon I added engine oil to the air cleaner cup and put it on the tractor. It has been a good Cub day.

Tractor Boy

Farmall Cub greasing

2008-08-12T08:50:00.002-05:00

Replacing gear oil and greasing the ’49 Cub ought to be a straight forward task(s). Well it hasn’t been.
The transmission fluid was tan, looking like tan paint. Folks on Yesterday’s Tractor Farmall forum said it meant water had got inside the transmission. I wonder whether this tractor was under water at one time. I bought a Spectricide brand insecticide pump, put kerosene in it, and flushed the transmission, then refilled with 90 weight gear oil. The gear oil looked like and had the consistency of thin honey. Pic 1300 shows the transmission filler plug. A lot easier to reach than the plug for emptying the transmission. Note it has a square head. All of these plugs are square headed. Three and a half pints later, the transmission was back together.

After the transmission, I decided to check the steering gear oil. It was not tan. It was black as could be so I flushed the housing with kerosene again and refilled with ¾ pint of 90 weight gear oil and replaced the filler plug. Pic 1301 shows the easy access to that filler plug. The final place to add gear oil is at the back of the tractor where there are two pans inside the rear wheel area. They seem to be held by ten bolts each. Given how grimy the fluids have been so far, I will remove them and clean out the old stuff before refilling with fresh gear oil. If I am fortunate, I can get to them using an air wrench while lying on my back under the tractor. The inside and end bolts will be easiest to access, of course. If the grease is tan colored, then it will confirm this tractor tried to swim or was used to cultivate a rice paddy.

Next it was time to grease the zerks on the front end and the PTO. All of them were painted over so I scraped the paint off the end and went at it with my grease gun. I used a lever actuated gun. I bought an air operated one from Harbor Freight, but found it wanted to make noise as though it were working, but without sending grease down the tube. I gave up on it except for perhaps using parts; however, today I found the two grease guns are incompatible because one is SAE and the other is metric. I will throw it away unless I can easily remove the parts for steel to make other things. Anyway, I found there was no zerk on the right front. Pic 1297 shows the hole. A few minutes with a 1/4X28 tap refreshed the threads and then I put in a new zerk (pic 1306). It was then I struggled for about 30 minutes to get the grease into that column. The nozzle on the grease gun did not grab the end of the zerk and grease kept sliding by the opening. Plus, it became quite a struggle to hold the nozzle hard against the zerk and operate the pump handle. Once it became obvious I could not swap parts between the two grease guns, I disassembled the nozzle on the old gun, cleaned it out, and reassembled it. Now it worked like it was supposed to. It took quite a few pump actions before old grease began to emerge from the top of the column. That part has been pretty dry for some time. If I do not own a bottoming tap in 1/4X28, then I need to buy one. The normal tapered tap did not refresh the inner-most threads and firm wrench action was needed to get the new zerk in as far as it was supposed to go.

The last place to grease is on the distributor. I need to remove two plugs, fit grease fittings, then add grease and replace the two slotted plugs. They are two different sizes. The larger is 3/8 fine thread (I did not measure the pitch as I was too hot already). Pic 1304 and 1305 show the two grease access plugs. I was able to remove the larger and saw no sign of grease in there.

Yesterday I began putting the refurbished air cleaner back on the Cub. Pic 1299 shows it in place. That air cleaner is not easy to put on. There is little room to operate a wrench. Fortunately I have some fine SEARS stubby ratchet wrenches which make the job possible. I made the gasket seen on the bottom of the air cleaner. Once I am sure the wire that holds the base is working correctly (which is isn’t right now) I will put the requisite amount of engine oil in the bottom of the air cleaner and be good to go.

Tractor Boy

Farmall and 640 Ford

2008-08-07T18:45:00.000-05:00

WEATHER!!

Last year we had a very wet Spring. The wind blew the tarp off the 640 Ford in the side yard and I ignored it, forgetting that the air cleaner had been removed for refurbishing. This Summer I removed the carburetor to refurbish it and discovered that water had entered it through the air cleaner air tube. Pic 1277-1282 show the sad condition of the old carburetor from that ’55 Ford tractor. I spent hours cleaning it inside and out. Pic 1283 and 1284 show the carburetor cleaned and ready to reassemble.

While waiting for the Ford 640 carburetor to get cleaned in the carb cleaner stuff, I worked on the ’49 Farmall Cub some more. The fuel tank came home cleaned and re-lined, but certainly needed painting. The shop used a torch to heat the metal so the liner goop would adhere better. Pic 1285 shows the hood and integral fuel tank as it came home. Pic 1296 shows the hood after some high quality rattle can paint from Tractor Supply. It looks very much better. I used the less expensive paint on the underside of the hood after using a steel brush and then some primer to prepare the surface. I used the steel brush on the back of the hood where the paint had been burned off.

The Cub air cleaner was removed (pic 1286). I cleaned it inside and out using kerosene and brushes, repainted it, made a new gasket from cork, and it is ready to return to the tractor.

Pic 1288, 1289, 1292 show the Cub without the hood and ready to be primed and painted. I actually used grey primer because I have a lot of it. I painted with the high quality Tractor Supply IH Red paint. Pic 1293-1295 show the after paint work. The Cub looks good. It needs new wiring harness, more fluid change, and probably electrical tweaking. It is getting there!

Tractor Boy

Not much gray

2008-07-24T20:56:00.000-05:00

In response to "She is a good looking tractor but the only thing I can find wrong with it is that there is not much Gray on it ! ;- )"

Yes, not much grey or gray on the Farmall.

The gas tank and hood (one piece unit) is at the local repair shop. Today, God willing, I will remove the radiator and take it to the same shop. I am slowly buying appropriate parts to include nuts and bolts. There is a Hodge podge of fasteners on this tractor and I am going to restore it to uniformity. Bolts where there should be bolts and screws where there should be screws. Of course I refresh old threads on bolts and in bolt holes as well as in nuts. Then a little oil or grease to reduce further rust and all is well.

I may get to try my hand at sand blasting today too. I have a very old red wagon to try out as well as some of the tractor parts. The wheel weights, although heavy at 150 pounds each, are a straight forward sand blasting chore. The air cleaner tube which runs between the air cleaner and the carburetor on the Fords is a mess on the 640. I let rain water get into it and it fouled the carburetor as well as seriously rusting the inside of the tube. I can blast it inside and out then prime it both areas too. The rubber connectors were age hardened and I managed to cut them away. I can probably find some appropriate tubing and cut it to length.

I was contemplating cleaning the gas tank and repairing it myself, but for just three times my cost I can get the repair shop to do it. The bonus is I don’t blow up or poison myself with fumes. I started cleaning the carburetor from the Ford 640 yesterday. I soaked it in the cleaning tank for almost all day then dunked it in water to neutralize the cleaner. I started scraping off mud, rust, whatever. Today I will get back to it and continue the process. It takes a while, but when I am done, the carburetor is like new.

Tractor Boy

Farmall Cub carb and oil

2008-07-23T12:34:00.000-05:00

The past few days I have been working on my Jan 1949 Farmall Cub tractor. I replaced the oil filter which was made of cardboard with one from NAPA with a metal body. Pic 1264 shows the oil drain location on the right side of the engine. 1268 shows the oil drained, and 1269 shows the old oil filter. The oil was a bit dirty, but much, much cleaner than the black oil I drained from the 8N Ford. The oil filter reservoir cap needed cleaning and painting so I took care of that too. A dental pick was used to scrape off mu7ch of the dirt, followed by a small steel brush. Then a coat of primer and two coats of Farmall red made a pretty looking cap.

It is a good thing I have tools! A set of used dental picks, several small brushes, a cleaning tank, left handed drill bits, and finally a can of carburetor cleaned were all used to clean and restore the carburetor. Tractor Supply sells a kit for the IH carburetor on the 59 year old tractor. Pic 1261 shows the carburetor as removed from the Cub. Pic 1262 shows the beginning of the cleaning process. Pic 1270 is just before dipping in the cleaner solution. Pic 1271 is after I finally got that stuck screw out. The head got twisted out of shape. Penetrating oil did not free it, so I used Dye Chem to paint the groove, then a dial caliper to mark the midpoint, a hole starter followed by several left handed drill bits to drill enough through the screw that I could remove it.

Pic 1272 shows the bolts which secure the carburetor to the manifold. I used a dies to re-cut the threads, and even used taps to refresh the threads in the carburetor body. Pic 1273 is the reassembled carburetor and the oil filter can cap. It all looks good to me. Pic 1274 shows the governor link installed. Much of the time I had to improvise for screws. My local hardware store had the best looking replacement screws for the body of the carburetor and my own supply had the one to tighten the link onto the governor butterfly. Pic 1275 is the other side of the carburetor. The dental picks and much patient scraping got most of the old paint off the carburetor, but that can of liquid carburetor cleaner dissolved the remaining paint, dirt, grease, and anything else that had not been removed earlier. Pic 1276 is the carburetor back on the tractor. Obviously I need to replace the short piece of hose to the air cleaner. It was dry rotted, yet still tough to get it off the air cleaner pipe.

Tractor Boy

1949 Farmall Cub

2008-07-13T08:03:00.001-05:00

I drove to Bivins, Texas with Bruce Lambert using a borrowed 18 foot trailer of Randy Curtis.

We went to pick up this good condition (I hope) Farmall Cub. I also bought rear wheel weights and was given the hydraulic system and a breaking plow which fits under the belly of the Cub. Interesting machine. I plan to get it running – carburetor, gas tank needs cleaning, rear light not attached, hydraulic lift to be painted and installed, decals. I am not sure I will keep it, but it certainly is an interesting little tractor. There are MANY of them in East Texas. The soil there is quite suitable to this little 9 horse tractor made for farms under 40 acres. With a little work, the Cub will run like it is supposed to and may even be useful with a belly mower or cultivator on it.

Tractor Boy

Governor reassembled

2008-07-07T21:38:00.001-05:00

Tonight I reassembled the governor to the 8 N tractor and it looks good. The package from YT was finally delivered. I put a dab of grease on bolts and the housing itself then put the internals back into the cover and bolted the cover to the tractor torquing to 7 foot pounds. Literally 112 inch pounds as I have an inch pound torque wrench. I need an extension to go from ¼ inch female to something larger male. I could not get to the top bolt with the wrench so simply guessed based on how stiff the bottom bolt felt which was indeed set to 7 fp.

Next comes the rear light wiring harness, for which I have some pictures as well as descriptive text. Then the brake job which requires me to raise the rear and remove those big wheels. I must check to determine whether the 6 ton jacks will extend high enough else get some wood to build a couple platforms. I am smart enough to avoid sintered block called cinder block as it can shatter at inconvenient times due to the weight on it.

Tractor Boy

Governor of Independence Day

2008-07-07T12:18:00.004-05:00

Friday 4th July I decided to remove the governor cover as it is definitely leaking there and spraying oil onto the right front wheel. So much oil that it pooled at the base of the wheel rim. That governor was warped about fifty thousandths! No wonder it leaked there. After several hours of lapping spread out over four days it is looking good. I have painted it and will re-install the governor once the new gasket arrives today. Pic 1207 shows the warped governor cover. Pic 1210 shows the initial lapping. Pic 1212 and 13 show the finished job. The governor is lying on the lapping plate which is a one inch thick 12X12 inch square of aluminum. It took 7 sheets of 100 grit garnet paper, one sheet of 80 grit aluminum oxide paper, and I finished with 150 grit garnet paper. Lapping was done using a figure eight pattern.

Tractor Boy

8N Ford does work

2008-06-28T18:39:00.002-05:00

Today was a work day at the home and the 1952 8N Ford was pressed into service. We were cutting cedar trees, well actually one tree, and found some limbs were hard to pull away from the tree due to grape vines. Some of the vines were easily 1 ½ inches or more in diameter. A solution was to bring out the tractor. A strap was hooked onto the limb and then onto the bar across the 3 point hitch. I found first gear was needed to get enough slow traction to pull the encumbered limbs free of the tree. Pic 1195 shows the tree behind the tractor. Pic 1197 shows a side view. I need to lose weight. The temperature was probably ninety degrees at the time.

Tractor Boy
http://www.tractorstories.blogspot.com/

8N Ford Nears Completion II

2008-06-27T18:36:00.000-05:00

Continuing with the nearing completion, Pic 016 shows the Ford decal on the front end of the hood. Another is on the other side. Pic 017 shows the vent covering the screen and air funnel of the air cleaner assembly.

Pic 018 is one of the decals under the hood door. Later I removed it and put it back straight. The lower part of the air cleaner (pic 019) has its own decal. So does the oil filter (pic 020) which gets two of them.

As I wrote earlier, I thought all was well, but soon found on Saturday evening before the 8N was to be driven across town… it would not start. After removing the cover from the distributor it was obvious why. The rotor (pic 021) was split in half. Of course it destroyed the distributor cap during its death revolutions. Fortunately Tractor Supply had more parts; however, I had a spare anyway and put it on. First I removed the old distributor and points (pic 022) and put in new ones (pic 023). Since I had not put the bumper on the Tractor yet, it was easy to use the hand crank to turn the engine enough to get the cam in the distributor to its proper position to set the gap. Now here was a challenge! The Ford 8N manual showed two different specifications for the gap. The point and condenser kit contained yet another specification. It had a .020 feeler gauge. One place in the manual called for about .024 inch gap. I compromised and used .022. It took a while. When I was done, I put on the new distributor and turned on the key, pushed the starter button and heard the starter turn over the engine. No start again. I stopped for the night.

On Sunday morning I tried again and still no starting although it was trying. After going to church, I brought home one the elders (Bob B) who decided the distributor post needed to be cleaned with emery cloth then lightly greased to get the rotor on far enough. Together we did this bit of work. I used fine emery cloth and white lithium grease. The 56 year old 8N started! I drove it to church, a distance of 4 ½ miles through town. Bob drove my truck behind me with flashers going although I had a Slow Moving Vehicle sign on the tractor. To do that I made a wooden fixture to fit in the upper link which is centered behind the seat.

The 8N Ford went to church willingly. It was a prop for the start of VBS. Several adults and children had their picture taken on or beside the good looking machine. In the afternoon the tractor started with no choking at all. I drove it home with Nancy driving the truck behind me. Later, toward evening, my granddaughter and I enjoyed a ride around the yard while Nancy made a short movie of this memorable event. Once again it did not require any choking to start. It purrs like a big kitten.

Tractor Boy
http://www.tractorstories.blogspot.com/

8N Ford Nears Completion

2008-06-27T10:37:00.000-05:00

The past two weeks I have been working furiously on the 1952 * N to get it ready to be a show piece (another name for Parade Queen) for the opening of Vacation Bible School. Painting is pretty complete. I bought a OEM tool box and realized it goes in the location where the solenoid has been on this old 8N since I bought it dead in a field about three years ago. Pics 004-007 show the solenoid on the brace under the hood. The hood is off the body at this time. That was a three person job both to remove it and to replace it again. I still had a quarter tank of fuel which added about 24 pounds to the weight of the hood. Pic 011 and 012 show the solenoid atop the starter where it is supposed to be. I lengthened one wire by soldering a piece in the line, and replaced another, being careful to work one at a time after studying what was supposed to happen electrically. Once the battery was in place I turned the key and pressed the starter (gear shift in neutral) and the starter turned as it should. So, all was well. I thought this, but later found this a premature conclusion.

Pic 009 shows a new hood pad in place. A lot of these items were purchased almost three years ago when I started this renovation and have been waiting patiently to be used. Pic 008 shows the right front wheel on the tractor again. I replaced five of the nuts with new ones and painted all of them, but the air wrench removed some of the paint when I tightened the nuts.

The thermostat goes on top of the engine inside the upper radiator hose (pic 013) after the fluid is drained into a large plastic container beneath the drain petcock at the bottom left side of the radiator. A separate adjustable clamp keeps it in place. There was no thermostat to replace. Pic 014 and 015 show the air funnel which inserts into the opening on the air filter. A screen is over the air funnel. While I was doing this I removed the special screw which holds the cover in place and shortened it on the side which had been touching and scratching the air cleaner. I am continually amazed that this tractor ran with so many things missing, bent, or broken. It did run from the field to my yard back in 2005.

More later.

Tractor Boy

www.tractorstories.blogspot.com

Wednesday madness

2008-06-19T13:58:00.003-05:00

Previously I discovered the Position Control lever was bent. This 8N must have had a hard life. Picture 62 shows the bent lever. After removing it from the tractor, I pounded it straight against a piece of "I beam" left over from construction of the over head lift. Pic 66 shows the straightened and painted lever back on the 8N. It is pinned in place by a 3/16 X 1 inch flat rivet.

I got out early this morning and washed off as much grease and dirt as I intended to, then went back later and painted red paint on the red portions of the 8N. It looks good, and even better from a distance. Pic 68 and 70 are the before pictures and pic 71 and 72 show after painting.

Later I decided to clean up the front wheel nuts and paint them. Five of them had to be replaced because they were broken around the leading edge of the nut. I cleaned off the old paint and rust with a steel brush, then used a ½ X 20 tap to refresh the threads. Still later I used a similar sized die to refresh threads part way on the wheel lugs. It must have been close to a hundred degrees or more in the Tractor Building so I did not stay at it all the way on any of the lugs. My air hammer can make up the difference, I am sure.

I had not yet collapsed from the heat so decided to add the tail light brace to the rear bracket and then the tail light to the brace. Well… the special nut and bolt would not go together and once that was corrected, one of the ¼ X 28 bolts would not screw into its location on the tail light. I am glad I have tools. I fixed it and it is on. Pic 73 shows the tail light on the 8N.

The wheel nuts got a few squirts of red paint and I am in the house. At 1930 it is still 95 degrees outside.

Tractor Boy

8N reassembly

2008-06-10T01:03:00.000-05:00

Last night and very early this morning I put on my paint-proof breathing mask and had a go at the 8N Ford rear half with Ford Red paint. This evening I began the two hour process of reassembling the fenders to the tractor. It took so long because there are two attachments for anti-sway bars that fasten beneath the axle and are held by the two fender bolts. Also, one of the bolts, which appear to be 9/16 inch size was reluctant to accept the nut. Even though I dabbed good grease in the nut, that one resisted. So, like any good home mechanic, I reached for my tap and die set. The largest size I had was ½ inch. The next step was to hold the carriage bolt (that is what it is) in my brass jawed vice and use a wrench to screw the nut onto the bolt. That did it.

Picture 55 shows the tractor painted with the plastic still draped over the rear wheels. Picture 57 shows the left fender with the light bracket attached. About that light bracket. The upper part takes a 7/16 carriage bolt and I could not find one at Tractor Supply, Lowe's, or Home Depot. I ordered an OEM bolt, nut and washer from Phil's Tractor Supply, then found the same thing for one fifth the cost at the local mom and pop hardware store in town. Hardware always comes in handy. J

I bought ten feet of ¼ inch ID copper tubing from Home Depot. I plan to run three wires through it from the dash area to the tail light bracket. That way I can have a wire each for the tail light and future work light, plus a genuine ground wire if I have issues with the return flow of the current. The N series ground to the body of the tractor and I think paint makes a pretty good insulator. I am surprised my head lights work as well as they do!

Next… to get one anti-sway bar straightened a bit. Then tail light, and remove the hood to paint it more and paint eh front end of the 8N. Did I say it runs like a pony? I plan to drive it to church for the Vacation Bible School party in about two weeks. Two years of part time effort is coming to a close. Of course I have two more old Ford tractors to rebuild so I have plenty to do.

Tractor Boy

8N new pix

2008-06-08T12:54:00.001-05:00

Pix 42-45 show parts of the steering gear box. The access to add 90 weight gear oil is behind a strong steel brace which must be removed or a hole bored through it to get to that plug (pic 46) The adjustment screws on each side of the steering gear box are used to take slack from the steering. The nut through which the screw passes is first loosened, then the screw is tightened. I used a big car jack to raise the front end of the tractor off the floor so I could feel whether the adjustment was right and not too tight.

Picture 49-50 show before and after painting. The old tractor is not really that bad. I want it to look better so am working on it. Pic 54 shows the rear of the tractor where I started to paint and am now cleaning and priming before painting. This is before priming.

Pic 53 shows the tail light bracket installed and painted to match the left fender. Because I own a milling machine, I was able to elongate two bottom holes on the bracket and thus get the top hole to align with the fender hole. I could have used a round file, but the mill was available, easy to use, better to control the hole size and shape.

I will have this tractor back together this week so it can participate in a kick off for Vacation Bible School this next Sunday. I am not sure whether to drive it to the church or borrow a trailer and haul it there. I think driving may be more fun, just slower. By the way, the 8N gets better gas mileage than my Nissan Titan truck. I guess it weighs less too.

8N tractor work was not all I did today, of course. I fished three chairs from the swimming pool. They were blown into the pool by those 50 MPH winds we had.

I hired two men to work in my yard, removing brush and mowing. Maybe we will cut trees this coming week end. I helped a little and made sure they had plenty of cool water while they were working.

Tractor Girl bought some images for her embroidery machine. I got to down load them, convert to a format for her machine, and move them to her thumb drive.

Finally, I prepared the sermon for tomorrow since I am subbing for our preacher. Oh, yes, really last… I wrote this piece.

Tractor Boy

Saturday

2008-06-08T12:53:00.001-05:00

This has been a busy, busy day.

I hired a guy to cut brush around my place and he showed up with his son. It took more of my attention than I wanted to get them doing what I wanted.

Between the yard guys, I had a few chores for Tractor Girl. I got those done.

I fished three chairs from the bottom of the swimming pool. We had very brisk winds and they were blown into the pool.

I also removed the fenders from the 8N so I could clean, prime, and paint red. While I was at that, I decided to mount the tail light bracket on the fender since the fender was now off the tractor. It looked like and easy job until the holes did not line up. Grrr so I did what any self respecting Gentleman Farmer would do. I used my milling machine to elongate two of the holes so I could shift the bracket enough to align the third hole. It is now on the fender and grey paint is drying.

I was going to clean, scrape, and maybe even paint some more on the rear of the tractor, but must stop and make sure my sermon is ready for tomorrow. Or maybe I can do that later after I work on the 8N some more.

Pictures, later, perhaps. The yard is looking good and I did not bake like a raisin to do it.

8N head lights and emblem

2008-05-31T13:43:00.002-05:00

Today I decided to do my best to mount the head lights on the 8N Ford. Ibought them in 2005 and fortunately they did not spoil while waiting in thedark closet to be mounted. Some purists would say in 1952 the 8N had a roundlight bracket on the hood dog leg. Others such as I say we like the look ofthe wing bracket. Of course those of us who like it also get to likedrilling a hole for the rear screw post of the wing to pass through the dogleg and allow it to fit flush. I used increasingly larger drill bits until Igot the hole just the right size.

With a little trial and some error, I found that I could reach under thehood better if I removed the distributor cap. It is much easier on the leftside of the tractor. Once I got them mounted then the real fun began. UsingOEM wiring harness, I experimented to figure out how to get power to thelights. At first it did not work and then I realized since this tractor hasa negative ground I needed to run the battery wire from the positive post tothe light switch. It worked!

From there it was figuring where to run the wires and how to connect them to the short wire from each head light. I didnot have any of the original harness retaining clips so I used 1950s stylenylon ties. :-) Fortunately I found a few holes in the gas tank bracket ofthe hood and was able to get the pull ties through the holes and secured theharness. It sure seems to be a generous amount of wire. When I was finishedI tried the lights again and both worked.
The front emblem is the earlier version which is baked enamel, I think. By1952 a cheaper aluminum emblem was being used. I like the earlier one. Thatemblem did require some drilling too. Next time I need to hire a smartmonkey with small hands to be able to reach into the cramped spaces to usethe tools. Not having any kind of monkey, I used the fine SEARS stubbywrenches and removed a piece or two of both the tractor and me in theprocess.

The 8N looks good, runs well, operates as it should. By Wednesday I willhave a new set of decals for the 8N and will add the hood Ford name as wellas a few more where I have painted. I have a muffler in the same dark closetthe lights were in. I will look to see whether the 8N is in need of one. Assoon as the decals are on, it will be time for a movie of the tractor movingalong.

Tractor Boy

8N week end

2008-05-26T17:51:00.003-05:00

This has been a busy week end with two big projects. The first, and most important to SWMBO, was to open the pool for the season. Pic 36 shows the end result. It does not show us working to remove two years worth of leaves and mud, then scrubbing the liner, then adding 10,000 gallons of fresh water. I managed to catch four frogs and transport them to the creek at the nearby park. We actually got in the pool yesterday and today. It is a great way to cool off in these 90 plus degree days.

I decided to paint the hood and console on my 1952 8N tractor. It is certainly not a professional job, but it does show the proper grey hood and fenders, and the Ford red (vermillion) console. I painted a few other places too. The radiator cap is freshly painted black and drying so it is not on the tractor. The hood has been dented by the previous owner driving into something. The amount it is off true made adding the front emblem a big challenge. Also the little speed clips they supply for the hood ornament are tough to put on by feel. Pic 28 shows the beauty of the Red Belly 8N with a properly painted (color anyway) console. I put in replacement gauges a couple years ago. Pic 29 shows the left side view where you can see original red as well as the console, and of course the hood. Pic 30 shows the emblem mounted. I think by 1952 Ford was using a cheaper ornament than the one I out on. Pic 31 shows a better view of the color. Pic 32 shows the fenders I painted a year ago. Pic 35 shows the right hand side of the 8N The red canister which is the air filter was overhauled and painted at an earlier date.

Tractor Boy

Knobs and 8N Tractor

2008-05-21T17:50:00.002-05:00

This is really two stories:

Tractor Girl wanted new knobs on her folding doors that enclose the washer and dryer. The originals are at the point of closure, so she wanted some at the fold to better control the doors. I could have gone to a hardware store or even Wally World and bought a couple wooden or plastic knobs. Instead I decided to make some from T-6 (6061) aluminum. I cut off a length of ¾ inch aluminum rod. (pic 24) Using my little lathe, I turned it to about .338 inches, center drilled it, bored it with a quarter inch drill held in the tail stock, and threaded it ¼ X 20. (pic 25). Of course I turned the outside to make it pretty then cut it off using a cutting tool. (pic 26). The finished knob (pic 21) and the knob on the door (pic 27). When I got done I measured the knobs and found they were not the same size! One is .008 inches longer than the other. They are far enough apart on the doors that the casual passer by will not notice. A person with a good electronic caliper or micrometer in hand will be barred from that part of the house.

The second story was even more fun. I drove the 8N, which started easily, to the front of the house where I used my pressure washer to blast off some grease and generally clean the tractor. After I dried it some I put it away and along comes my four year old grand daughter Aleia who asked to ride the tractor. So, I started it up again with Aleia sitting on the seat in front of me, backed it out of the Tractor Building, and we proceeded to drive it across the back yard. We drove to our private road, then West to 60th street with Aleia steering some of the time. At the main street I looked to make sure no cars were coming and we pulled onto the street to make a U turn. Then we drove east back to our yard, swung into the drive way and under the trees where Grandma (Nancy) waved and we waved back. We turned North to drive through the back yard and, making a wide turn past the struggling black berry bushes, we drove into the Tractor Building (in first gear). We shut the 8N down and secured the building. What fun! The round trip was at least 1,800 feet.

Since I rebuilt the carburetor and the governor, replaced the throttle plate, cleaned the air cleaner and replaced its filter (with something I made), and changed oil as well as hydraulic fluid, greased the fittings, and aired the new tires, the 8N runs like a high strung pony. Previously I ran with throttle wide open. Now I have not run the throttle half way open. I also straightened the choke rod a bit and it now returns to open position automatically instead of needing to be pushed open once the engine is running. I do like these old tractors!!! J

Tractor Boy

Chores for today 10 May 08

2008-05-10T19:01:00.000-05:00

Today I completed the newspaper post extension. I milled two pieces of aluminum to hold the added 4X4 treated lumber to the top of the plastic post which was too short from day one. I started the milling process last night and finished it this morning. Two yellow jackets had taken up residence in the news box. I sprayed one last night and the other this morning as he disputed ownership of the abode. (Pix 15 and 16) The holes in the plastic were off so I had to adjust the holes in the aluminum plates. It is quarter inch thick and I enjoyed cutting it, squaring it, and milling the holes.

Next I mowed half the yard and treated a few fire ant mounds. My Ford 640 tractor covered by a slightly too small tarp is visible to the right. (pic 17)

The two-inch water pump got all the water from the swimming pool that it could. I have a small electrical pump that attaches to a garden hose and will get most of what is left. There are at least four frogs living in the pool. I am sure they wonder what happened to their deep safe haven. The pump is visible to the left. (pix 18 and 19)

Gunner is the dog on the left, and Mocha is the one on the right. Mocha can eat a baseball in minutes. So, no more baseballs for her to play with. The two dogs stay active rough housing with each other. (pic 20)

I almost forgot to mention it was about 92 degrees today and I got sun burned.

Tractor Boy

Making a barrel threading die guide

2008-04-25T19:01:00.000-05:00

If you decide to add a flash hider to a .223 rifle, it is best to use a guide for the die to keep it centered on the barrel when you cut the threads. Now, you can buy one for about $14 or you can make your own for two or three times that much. That is what I decided to do. The most expensive part was the 1/2X28 die. I also bought a 1/2X28 tap in case I want to design and make my own flash hider/recoil reducer. The next expense is the steel rod. I used a ½ inch and a ¼ inch rod to make the guide. I already had a lathe, files, threading tool for the lathe, turning tool, cut off tool, hack saw, center drills, micrometer, dial micrometer, cutting fluid, oil – the usual stuff.

Since the 1/2X28 die is 1.5 inches in diameter, I found I did not have a die holder, so I learned how to thread the ½ inch rod using a threading tool. To do that the gears of the lathe must be changed. Once I figured out how to do that, the rest was patience and measuring.
With the threaded rod in the lathe, I put the drill chuck in the tail stock and center drilled the rod, then used a home made tap guide held in that drill chuck to tap the ½ inch rod 10-32.
Setting aside the ½ inch rod, I took a ¼ inch rod, cut off a piece, put it in the lathe, squared the end, center drilled it for a live center held in the tail stock, and proceeded to turn it to .218 inches for the bore of the rifle to have the barrel threaded. Slow and steady with much measuring is the way to go. I found the Starret micrometer more accurate than the dial micrometer. When it read .218, it was time to cut off the distal end and thread it 10-32 using a die guide for the tail stock of the lathe. At that point I learned the rod was too big to thread as it was so I reduced one end to .197 using the turning tool and threaded that portion on the lathe. It is very easy to line things up by using the tail stock and the head chuck. After I finished threading the .218 rod I discovered the big challenge in threading was because I put the die in backwards and had no starting taper to speak of.

After threading the .218 rod, I cut off the near end, checked to make sure it screwed into the ½ inch rod, removed it and set it aside, then cut off the threaded portion of the ½ inch rod. A file was used to round a few edges to start the post and the die easily. The two threaded steel pieces were assembled and it was done. J

Tractor Boy

8N work

2008-04-19T18:58:00.000-05:00

It has been a while since writing anyone.
Recently I did some more repair work on my 8N tractor. First I made a bolt for the timing belt housing (I think it is called) to which the governor housing attaches. The original bolt must have been lost so someone put a short bold in from the opposite side from where it should have been installed. I carefully measured, bought a 3/8X16 bolt from tractor supply and modified it. There is an optical illusion between the unthreaded portion and the threaded portion of the bolt. I thought the unthreaded part was too big so I center drilled the bolt and held it in my lathe while I started turning the rear of the bolt shaft prior to cutting new threads. Once I measured a new bolt I realized that turning the bolt was not needed so I just threaded the whole length of the bolt. Then I very carefully measured the needed length and cut off the end of the bolt exactly one lock washer thickness too short. J

Today I decided to change the hydraulic fluid AND replace the original PTO shaft with a new one with the modern size end for implements. It is most definitely necessary to drain the hydraulic fluid first! Anyway, the man I bought this tractor from did not do much servicing of it and I was sure it was wise to replace the hydraulic fluid. A challenge was that I did not actually have a container to receive five gallons of fluid. I used my genuine store bought oil pan which hold about 5 or 6 quarts to do the job. There are two large threaded plugs on the bottom of the tractor. I started with the front one and drained as much of the hydraulic fluid as I could into the pan, then screwed the plug back on while I dumped the fluid into an empty plastic container. When I removed the plug again there was a flood of more fluid, but less than before. After a while I re-installed the plug and dumped that fluid mostly into a different container. This time the funnel managed to seal the opening in the bottle and a generous portion of fluid poured onto the floor of my building.

The second plug was just like the first only it is between the rear wheels of the tractor so just a bit more difficult to reach. Once this second operation was complete I loosened four 9/16 bolts on the PTO cover at the rear of the tractor, slid the old PTO shaft along with the over run clutch out of the tractor housing and slid in the new PTO which has the modern size attachment. It was easy, which has been unusual on this tractor. I also learned the original seems to have had no gasket (unless it was so tight to the tractor housing that I did not see it. I don’t see it in the picture accompanying this message either.

Some time ago I bought a five gallon bucket of hydraulic fluid and a hand pump for putting it in the tractor without spilling it all over the floor. Once the self priming pump was going it took just about 240 pumps cycles of the lever to fill the tractor to just above the full mark on the dip stick. Then came the test. I started it up, got it running well, and engaged the hydraulic system with the lever on the left side below the seat. Nothing happened. So, I re-did the sequence and this time it started to lift, hesitating and vibrating, finally settling to a smooth operation in both directions. Success!!!! I have rebuilt this tractor so it runs like a young machine.

The other thing I did lately was to send two of my Kel-Tec pistols to the company in Florida for repair. I sent them in the first week of March, using UPS and second day air or whatever they require. It took four days for the package to get there. On the return trip, one came the same day it was shipped by the company while the other came the next day after they shipped it back to me. On each pistol it looks as though they replaced almost everything including the frame. They make a new frame using the old serial number. One pistol was a PF9 made in the very first production run of a hundred pistols. It needed a lot of help. The other, a locked breach .380, had a habit of the disassembly pin “walking out” the side while the pistol was being shot. I have not tried them out or the chrome plated PF9 I bought recently.

I have a physical scheduled for mid May to determine whether I can ‘enlist” for two more years after the present three years of active duty ends in September. It is worth more money for me to enlist for three years – more like a three times larger bonus than for two years. I wish I could stay here at Fort Hood, but it is more likely I will go to Fort Lewis for the tour. Then, or if they do not let me sign on for these next two to three years, I will really retire – sort of. I am not planning ever to sit in a rocking chair, just play a lot more than I have been doing. Life is good.

Tractor Boy

Aquiring and setup of the lathe part 2

2007-08-13T06:11:00.001-05:00

The lathe as you see it here (upside down) weighs 70 pounds plus a couple for the piece of wood. First step was to get it off the wood. The instructions said to fasten rubber legs to the lathe after adding the chip tray. Then a little further the instructions said it is best to anchor the lathe to a firm foundation such as a table. Since I happened to have such a table, I decided to do it that way. The instructions also said that they did not furnish bolts for this necessary fastening so I went to a couple hardware stores and bought some bolts. They were a bit too long so I used the originals. Later I can drill some T-6 aluminum or steel and cut off pieces to use for spacers beneath the table so the too long bolts go in just far enough. (pic 596 and 597)

Using a good drill, a square, a fine ruler, and three sizes of drill bits, I marked off and drilled four 3/8 inch holes then mounted the lathe. By now lifting the 70 pound was beginning to feel like exercise. Once it was mounted, I followed the rest of the instructions which were sparse and in two locations, plus I had previously read Mini Lathe User's Guide from The Little Machine Shop. The guide said to wipe of the grease and clean the parts with paint thinner then oil. It also recommended some white lithium grease so I bought some at the same time as the paint thinner. I found the grease useful in helping the bolts go where they were supposed to. The greatest challenge was figuring out what was what as nothing had labels and parts were in boxes within boxes, wrapped in bubble wrap, and covered with grease. The pictures with the instructions did not identify parts well, yet I pressed on and got the carriage and cross slide on. (pic 598 and 599)

The lead screw (long horizontal screw in the picture) had to be separated at the tail end (right side) of the bed. Then the carriage was slid on except it would not go on so I loosened some plates on each side enough to get the carriage on the bed and engage the lead screw with the large carriage wheel. Later I removed it all and tightened the bolts some as it was too loose. The instructions said to loosen the piece holding the lead screw at the tail end and adjust it so the half nuts would properly engage the lead screw. I had read about those things in both the Guide and another actual book – Machine Shop Essentials by Frank Marlowe. By closing the half nuts on the lead screw, the alignment occurred and the bolts holding it in place on the tail end of the bed were tightened.

An additional challenge was happening. There were bags of parts such as gears, Allen wrenches, open end wrenches, loose bolts, but they were not all in the same bag. All but one of the Allen wrenches were fastened together while another vital one was hiding among some gears. When the instructions said to put certain gear wheels on the head end of the lathe, they were not in the bag. In fact, they were not even in the same box. They were in another box inside a big red cover for them. Once I found them, they went on easily and engaged properly. (pic 600 and 601)

By trial and error I put levers where they belong (I think) and assembly continued. Actually, I moved a few levers around as I found pictures which suggested I had not put the right one on a location. The Compound Rest where the tool post goes was another challenge; however, by now I had an idea what to do. I got it on and adjusted the gibs to tighten the Compound Rest on the Cross Slide. (pic 602)

The tailstock went on easily after I put the lock back in place. This tailstock has a mechanism to lock it in place on the bed. (pic 603)

The three jaw chuck went on the head end. Easy to do. (pic 604)

After just nine hours of effort the lathe was all together and even ran properly. (pic 606).

Here is a close up of the controls (pic 607). What you don't see is the electronics inside this cover. That was the easiest part of the assembly because I am familiar with electricity and put the wires on right the first time. The plastic piece which is added after the wires and keeps them out of the lead screw was one of those things that three hands can do better than two. It helps a lot to have magnetized screw drivers so the little screws stay around when it is time to put them back on the machine.

This lathe even has a DRO (digital read out) for the spindle speed. A nice touch. (pic 608).

Would I do this again? Yes. Only I could do it much faster since now I know what the parts are. Next goal? Upgrade it, of course. I am going to change the tool post for a very nice quick change tool post from Little Machine Shop. It is made by A2Z company. That is another story…

Tractor Boy

acquiring and setup of the lathe part 1

2007-08-12T16:25:00.001-05:00

Friday, 10 August 2007, five boxes arrived with the machine mini-lathe and accessories. That came from Micro-Mark in New Jersey. Another box came from Brownell's in Idaho containing some known stock for the lathe (T-6 aluminum, and two kinds of steel – all round). Brownell's also sent me Dykem for marking the work, Do-Drill for drilling and machining, and a few tools such as a thread cleaner and a scribe tool. I also got some tap guides from them. A few days earlier Little Machine Shop sent me the bulk of accessories including a dial measuring tool with magnet, boring tools, cutting tools, and a device for making round things (knobs). They also sent me a quick change tool post of good quality to replace the standard tool post which came with the 7X14 lathe. (pic 585)

The first thing to do was set up the table for the lathe which I purchased from Micro-Mark along with the mini-lathe. Surprise! No instructions at all! After studying the design, I assembled the table and had one piece left over. It is to pull the center work space from its hideaway under the table. The table is flat, about a perfect size for the lathe, and even has adjustable feet. (pic 587 and 586)

Once I got the table up it was time to open the packages and look at what I bought. Christmas in August!

Eureka

2007-08-11T17:46:00.001-05:00

I got the lathe put together. It took only 9 hours! It runs too.

I found the instructions wanting. It said put on…. But had few pictures to tell me what it was supposed to look like. The least fun part was when it said to install some gears and they were in a different bag in a different box from the bag of gears I had before me.

The table had no instructions at all.

I took many pictures and will write a story soon for the blog.

I am off to shower. Fortunately I had enough tools. J

Tractor Boy

the beggining of the lathe hobby

2007-08-11T08:34:00.001-05:00

The packages all arrived today. After dinner I used a dolly to take them back to my Tractor building and took a picture. Then I opened the box with the table for the lathe – no instructions at all! Fortunately I have an eye and a brain so I assembled it and set it in place. I had a small piece of angled steel left and screws to attach it, but no certain idea where it goes. The holes pre drilled in the top to fasten it to the base were off where the holes in the frame were located so I put in a couple well and put the rest in as best I could. It is surprisingly sturdy. Supposedly the package weighed 18 kilos, but it did not feel that heavy. Tomorrow I open other boxes and assemble other stuff

Tractor Boy

New Hobby

2007-08-08T07:45:00.001-05:00

Today I decided to take the plunge and ordered a mini lathe from Micro-Mark, http://www.micromark.com/ and accessories from Brownell's http://www.brownells.com/ and from the Little Machine Shop. http://www.littlemachineshop.com/ The lathe is a 7X14 size and cost $535 plus shipping. I ordered a stand or table for it from the same place. From the Little Machine Shop I got the tools, and assorted machinist necessities such as a quick change tool post, steel protractor, and two steel rulers, as well as another dial measuring tool for lathe set up and adjustment. Brownell's sells an assortment of steel and aluminum round stock for making stuff and I bought some sample packs. They also had Dykem for marking, a scribing tool, and many other things I did not order this time. By next week I will be setting it all up in my Tractor Building.

Tractor Boy

Another rebuild

2007-08-05T07:44:00.001-05:00

Little Machine Shop had a sale on the comparator so I bought one. The two inch thick by six inch square granite base is flat to .00005 inches. The gauge measures .001 inch. I may get either another one or a magnetic base with adjustable arm for the metal lathe setup I am going to buy. It is useful in making sure objects are properly aligned. I suspect it will measure run out on a cartridge just fine too.

Yesterday I tackled my church friend's 9N carburetor. He purchased the kit from TS and I told him I would rebuild it. This is the second carburetor job and I hardly even looked at the instructions which I studied and used extensively before. The inside gasket was a mess, all shredded and worn out. I made a tool from a worn out Sawzall blade to remove the brass bolt within the carburetor. I simply have no screw drivers that wide. It worked perfectly. His fuel valve was so dirty I thought the glass bowl was tinted brown. It also cleaned up nicely. Here are a few pictures.

Tractor Boy

Rebuild 8N throttle to governor

2007-07-28T13:36:00.000-05:00

Today I decided to remove the "bracket" which attaches the throttle rod from the governor and rebuild the bolt which holds the bracket to the throttle rod at the steering column. I saw too much slack in the operation and watched the "bracket" not move when the throttle was being adjusted. I wanted to tighten that linkage so the throttle would be more responsive and be able to maximize the distance the governor to throttle arm would move. I am still seeking to get as close to 2,000 rpm as this old tractor will go.

It was not clear to me whether the ¼ inch thick carriage bolt holding the "bracket" to the throttle rod was original. It is too long and a huge challenge to get it in place and especially to remove it. I decided to shorten the length. While at it, I found a ¼ inch hex head bolt which had some of its shaft unthreaded. That could give better contact surface with the notch in the throttle shaft and help tighten the connection. In looking at the contact with the left side of the bracket it seemed the design could be improved so I did. I also improved the design of the carriage bolt at its head to get more close fitting. As long as I have a Dremel tool and plenty of cutting wheels as well as grind stones, it is not too difficult. I used a die set to clean up the threads and actually to add a couple threads to the hex head bolt.

It is back on the 8N with the hex head bolt in place of the carriage bolt.

Tractor Boy

new challenges

2007-07-24T23:58:00.000-05:00

Tonight I took the throttle rod which was well painted and looked great and remounted it on the tractor. I loosened the nut which controls how far the governor to throttle rod will move so it can go as far as the shortened rod would pull it toward the rear. New challenge… the bolt which holds the right angle piece at the bottom of the throttle shaft allows that right angle piece to slip a bit. Fascinating to watch it do that, but I should like to tighten the connection. I think I need to make a new connecting bolt that is slightly greater in diameter so it fits the slot in the throttle shaft more tightly. I suppose I could get a new bolt or one just slightly larger in diameter. Of course I would need a new nut too. If you look where the throttle shaft connects to the right angle piece to which the rear end of the throttle to governor rod attaches, you will see just what I mean.

I love a new challenge and there are so many with this old 8N!

Tractor Boy

Progress on rod

2007-07-21T17:21:00.000-05:00

Today, this morning, I examined the throttle rod and saw that the threaded end was bent so I used a Dremel tool to cut off the threaded end and re-threaded 10-32 which was the original size. With the 10-32 tap I chased the threads in the end piece and the tiny nut which is used to tighten the end piece (with the spring) on the rod. Finally I primed it and later painted the rod and end piece. It has been drying for a while. Probably ought to let it dry over night. So now I have a red throttle to governor rod which is approximately straight and on which the end turns easily. It is about ¾ inch shorter than the original. My hope is that I will be able to increase engine speed. J

Tractor Boy

throttle rod repair

2007-07-19T23:50:00.000-05:00

I managed to break the rod which goes between the throttle and the governor on the 8N Ford while trying to shorten it.

It was also bent, but not by me.

I took it to Elija Baker, an old, old welder who is the best around. He welded it in less than ten minutes.

I straightened the rod and primed it. I will also cut off the good end and re-thread it to make it a bit shorter and be able to get more speed from the engine – I hope.

477 is the clamp which holds the exhaust pipe sections together. I moved it and re-tightened it so hopefully it no longer leaks (much) at that joint.

Tractor Boy

8N progress

2007-07-16T22:14:00.000-05:00

This evening I decided to see whether the 8N Ford tractor would start since I refurbished the carburetor this week end.

It started right up. I needed to adjust the fuel mixture for both the idle and the main fuel. I did and it ran better. Starts like a real champ! There are still a few more adjustments to make to the fuel mixtures. Also, the idle speed screw is very close to hot engine parts and I managed to get it set much too fast. It is supposed to run at 400 rpm on lowest setting. That needs tweaking it was going at 1000 rpm because I miss-read the tachometer (called a Proof Meter by Ford). Also, I noted that part of the exhaust pipe is loose so I will remove a collar and reset it. It needs that anyway – more "chimp" work on the tractor before I got it. It is closer and closer to a like-new 55 year old tractor. I really enjoy working on it and restoring it! Lots more to do such as lights, cleaning, paint job, decals, hood name plate.

Tractor Boy

8N carburetor refurbish

2007-07-16T07:10:00.000-05:00

Starting on Saturday morning, I removed, cleaned, refurbished, and replaced the carburetor on my 1952 8N Ford tractor. I have not started it yet since, but I saw no leaks. That must be a good sign. I took many pictures to help with reassembly. Here are a few.

Tractor Boy

Wednesday musings

2007-07-11T11:32:00.000-05:00

In the midst (who talks like this anymore?) of cleaning up stuff I carried some more ammo back to the Tractor Building, soldered a broken wire on my grand daughter's electronic fairy wand, and started the 8N. The most important event was the soldering. J The 8N was second in import to me. Anyway, to make a short story long, I was attempting to start and run it with the fuel shut off so I could drain the gas from the fuel line to the carburetor before removing the carb to refurbish it. I guess the vacuum is such that the tractor will run just a short time – measured in seconds before it quits. After a while I gave up. At least I know the old 8N will start. It is too, too muddy to drive the tractor still. I guess it will be two or three more days before enough ground water either drains off or evaporates so I can actually drive the 8N. Mean time I can remove and service the carburetor.

There is an oil leak, apparently related to the governor so I wonder whether I did not get enough old seal off the housing or the tractor before reassembling the governor to the tractor. I will keep an eye on it and see if I can pin point the leak. Mean time I put a pan under the leak to keep it off the floor.

I was sure I had some 90 weight gear oil for the steering column, but so far have not found it. I am pretty sure I bought some as I can picture the container. Guess I can buy another container which is often how I find missing stuff – replace it and put the new next to the missing item while saying. "Oh, there it is!".

Time to get back to sorting stuff and getting it off the bedroom floor. I have enjoyed being out sick even with a sore throat from strep bacteria. The humidity is high and perspiration is great right now…

Tractor Boy

It runs!

2007-07-04T10:29:00.000-05:00

I got the 8N running this morning just before the next rain. I first tested each spark plug wire for spark, then again checked the coil spark. All was working so I kept trying and finally turned on the fuel flow. Then I realized I had the throttle quite low so I boosted that to about ¾ full and gave it a choke. It ran pretty well. Low speed is 500 rpm and high speed is 1500 so I will adjust the carburetor and see whether I can get the range of 400 to 2,000 rpm like the book says. I think it has been five or six months since that tractor has run! I am happy!

Tractor Boy

8N re-wiring done

2007-07-02T23:50:00.000-05:00

I did the re-wiring except that I attached P1 with the diode to the side of the ignition switch opposite what is in the drawing (pinkish wire). It ties in with the ammeter now. I am still getting a weak spark, but it is better than before and I no longer have 12 volts at the coil when the switch is open. Not supposed to have any volts there when the switch is open and that is the way it is now. I do not know why P1 is supposed to be like it is shown in the picture so it was easier to wire it as I did it.

Using my trusty feeler gauges, I discovered the point gap is .024 or .025 instead of .015 so that is the next thing to adjust. I put a trickle charger on the battery to bring it back to full charge. Still, I get to bump the starter until the points are at their widest opening, then using an .015 feeler gauge, I can loosen the screw on the points and set them at the proper gap. I may as well clean them too.

During the wiring process, before I put the white plug to P1 and P2 on the alternator, I used a set of genuine Chinese manufactured files to clean off the rust, paint, and years of corrosion from the contacts at P1 and P2. My ancient soldering gun made short work of connecting the wires including the diode. The silver ring on the diode goes toward the alternator. I think it limits which way current passes. Kind of a one way gate, I think.

Since the points are not properly gapped, I better check and re-gap the spark plugs too. All this before I even touch the carburetor. It seems I may need a new resistor and a new junction block (since I don't have one).

Well, except for the hard rain we got this evening, that is all the news that is fit to print. The news tonight said the parks are not likely to be open to boaters for the rest of the summer due to too much water to move and the parks have been flooded. Emily tried to go fishing today and learned she could not get to the lake. J I don't know whether she tried the other lake. We have two good sized lakes here.

Tractor Boy

electricion

2007-07-02T15:46:00.000-05:00

Today I bought a diode and some of those circular end pieces (a Radio Shack sample) then got to work on the wiring of the 8N. I cleverly forgot to mark the position of the top bracket for the alternator so I could easily put it back with the correct tension on the belt. Oops. Anyway, I bought an alternator plug which goes onto P1 and P2 then soldered the diode to P1 and a ring thingy to the P2 wire which happens to be red. I then shifter wires from the ammeter to the switch ends and think I have it correct. I will go out later and put the alternator back in place then hook up the wires that go there. If the diode quits then next time I may wire further up the line. I can hardly wait to see what happens. I call it the "smoke test". If it smokes then it was connected wrong. In the instructions left by the fellow who answered my query, he said to put the resistor and P1 on the same side of the switch. I am not sure why and it was easier to put them on opposite sides so that is what I did. I refer to the ignition switch. Using my trusty multi-meter, I checked to make sure the connection were good and that I had moved the correct wires. Now I have one fewer wire on the ammeter than I did before. P1 is no longer going there. In theory I will see the ammeter move when the machine is charging. If it goes in the wrong direction I will simply switch the wires around.

Life is interesting, anyway. If all goes well electrically, including the voltage to the coil, then I can start working on the carburetor to clean it. I am going to check the points too since I am pretty sure I did not replace or check those on the 8N. I did it on one of the tractors and I do believe it was the 640.

It rained a bit today again. Not a storm, just a drizzle, but the yard is too wet to mow the grass. My yard is muddy. Very unusual for this time of year. We are supposed to get rain through Friday. Usually we get about 2 inches of rain in all of June; however, we got six inches this year. My grass is tall.

Tractor Boy

8N terminal block

2007-07-01T18:01:00.000-05:00

Here is a picture from YT of the 8N terminal block. Part 8NNN14448A

It appears to be two isolated posts to which wires are attached. Is that correct?

Legend Parts sells it for about $14 and YT sells it for about $9.

I do believe I do not have one of these gadgets.

Tractor Boy

Wiring 8N

2007-06-30T09:50:00.000-05:00

This morning I finished tracing wiring. I have been doing this sort of thing since I was fifteen so it is not a new adventure entirely. I will draw a schematic and send it to you. Meantime….. the alternator is connected to the ammeter by two wires, one from the primary (I guess) and one from a position numbered 1. When the ignition switch is off, I read 12 volts going to the coil. That seems to me a mistake. When the ignition switch is on, the big resistor wired in series with the coil begins to warm up and the voltage rises from 4.something to 6.24 volts. It seemed as though it took about 30 seconds, maybe a bit less, for the voltage to get to six volts. That would be consistent with the resistor heating up and allowing more current to pass through. At this point it tells me to wait 20-30 seconds before actually pushing the starter button so I get enough voltage to the coil to put out a decent spark.

I am pretty sure the alternator should be going to the battery by itself and not to the ammeter and the ammeter should be reading from the battery alone. That way the ammeter reads the status of the current flow into and out of the battery which is what I believe it is supposed to do.

So now I have a 12 volt coil and a system set for six volts. I can either go back and get the six volt ignition coil, either trading in the 12 volt coil or keeping it, or I can remove the resister from the circuit easily enough and run 12-14 volts to the coil. It would be 14.7 volts approximately when the alternator is charging. J At any rate, getting the coil out of its location is going to be a challenge since one bolt is on the front of the engine and I might have to remove the hood and fuel tank assembly to get to the bolt. Since I learned the resistor must have time to heat up, I can repeat the test of the spark from the coil after allowing the ignition switch to be on for 30 seconds. I think I did not do that initially so was getting 4-5 volts to the coil instead of 6.24 volts or a bit more.

That is all for now. J I will be sure to send you the diagram which I am going to send to YT also.

Tractor Boy

coil

2007-06-26T03:42:00.000-05:00

I bought a six volt ignition coil at NAPA . The guy at the store said he sells very few although he used to live in a farming community in Wisconsin and sold many of those six volt coils. Before I put it on I am going to check the wiring – actually make a drawing of the wiring on the 8N. Also, I will check the voltage going to the coil to make sure it is okay. I have already cleaned the wire ends which go onto the coil as well as others and removed the switch someone put on the tractor years ago to cut off electricity to the coil which I am sure was to stop the engine and one solution to poor wiring design. I am half tempted to take the tractor back to six volts, but that would mean getting larger battery cables such as one or two gauge wire that is thicker than twelve volt cables are. For now I will take the time to trace the wires and draw what is there. I will be amazed if the tractor is properly wired now, but it will be by the time I am done with it.

Later I can and will renew the carburetor, but first get the ignition right. That will probably mean I check the point gap. I do not recall whether I replace the points and condenser on this tractor. I have done it on either this or the 640 so I have some knowledge how to do it. I enjoy the challenge and it keeps me from running the streets. J I know I am close on this 8N and want to get it done so I can tackle the 640 which is partially apart and has been for maybe a year.

Tractor Boy

8n Success!!!

2007-06-15T19:57:00.000-05:00

I was absolutely right! It was the starter solenoid which died. AND the 6 volt solenoid is a replacement for the one which was on the 8N. After mounting it – easier said than done, I got the key and tried it. It cranked right over just like new. J J J

Tractor Boy

8N Starter and Solenoid

2007-06-14T21:34:00.000-05:00

Today I tried an experiment. I removed the cable from the starter. It goes to the starter solenoid. Then I ran a 12 volt battery cable from the positive post of the battery and touched that post on the starter. The starter turned over just like it is supposed to. So now I know the starter is good. I took an ohm meter and checked the starter switch, starter button, and small wires from the solenoid to the ammeter. All were sound. The starter button made a connection when I pressed it down which is just what it is supposed to do. So I now know for certain the problem is the starter solenoid itself.

What I do not know for sure is whether a six volt solenoid will work with a 12 volt system? That is the question. I will go out to the net and see if there is a 12 volt starter solenoid with three posts. If there is not, then I will replace the dead solenoid with the six volt new one that is in the box in picture 413. Picture 412 is the solenoid. Picture 411 is the starter showing the post I put full 12 volt positive connection to.

Tractor Boy

Sunday is Governor Day

2007-06-10T21:57:00.000-05:00

Today I got out at 0630 and removed the governor from the 8N tractor. After church I got after it and carried 7 three gallong buckets of water, using six to fill my new parts washer. Then the governor took a bath and got mostly cleaned up. I dried it and began to disassemble, replace a few worn parts, and reassemble the governor. Then I replaced it on the tractor, hooked up the battery, and got about one second of attempt to start. Maybe 1.5 seconds, but I doubt two whole seconds, then…. Nothing. There is electricity going somewhere as I learned when I went to tighten a few loose nuts without disconnecting the battery, but not starting action. I am baffled.
The tractor does not run, but it sure looks good!

Tractor Boy

8N work

2007-06-03T08:40:00.000-05:00

Here is the governor link(s) which need to be disconnected before I can remove the governor. It looks as though it has a spring retainer and just pushes and lifts off. I squirted it will PB today and will give it a try later.

Also, here is the original oil filter plug showing how rounded and tapered it had become. It was an engineering challenge to remove it. The new replacement plug is square. It is on the bottom of the oil pan and not in good focus, but is viewable.

I tried to grease the tractor using my dandy air powered grease gun; however, it does not seem to want to squirt the grease out although it is definitely in the reservoir. I do have an old fashioned pump type which does seem to work. Actually I have two of those, having been given one with the tractors.

Tractor Boy

8N almost done, well almost

2007-05-28T19:48:00.000-05:00

Today I put the air cleaner on the tractor which was a chore just a bit easier than removing it. By greasing the pipe which goes to the carburetor it went on a tiny bit easier.

After a wonderful Memorial Day meal and a mandatory nap. ( I hope you believe it is mandatory), I decided to change the oil in the 8N. The oil drain plug used to be a one inch square fitting; however, long ago and far away someone did something to it and it was tapered and rounded. In order to get it off I used a big pipe wrench and a piece of two by four below that with a bottle jack holding it all in place so the wrench would not slip off the drain plug. With a lot of effort it began to turn and I was able to remove it. Before it came off I thought I had hit an oil well. This black, thick, evil looking stuff came from around the plug. At one time it was oil, but now looked as though it was ready to be used to oil a road. I replaced the oil drain plug with a new one and put five quarts of oil in the engine. Then… I decided to change the oil filter. The old tractor takes a NAPA 1010 filter canister. The 8N Owner's Manual hardly mentions the oil filter at all. It certainly does not say how to remove it so I experimented and found a socket just larger than ¾ inch would fit the nut. It seems the cap is compressing a spring and it removed itself soon enough. The canister has a ring to lift it out so I did – part way. It would not clear the fuel line. After studying the possibilities, I removed the bolts holding the oil filter housing to the engine and eased the filter out. Of course I had a new one to put in and it went in with only a little twisting, turning, jiggling. Another quart of oil – total of six – and the tractor is almost ready to drive. I am going to grease the fittings and check the coolant level. The battery is on a trickle charger and is ready to go.

This has been a very productive four days!

Tractor Boy

8N more success !

2007-05-28T09:58:00.000-05:00

This is what I did before breakfast today – after sloshing through the rain to my Tractor Building .

Last night I could not get the battery case back into place because the part which covers the steering mechanism was shifted about 1/16 inch too low. I am sure it has been this way for many years.

This morning I loosened bolts holding the steering housing to the frame, squirted with Parts Blaster, and used a Sears pry bar at least two feet long to lever the housing up that 1/16 inch so the bolts would enter the holes. Some time ago I bought a set of pry bars because they were on sale and I thought they would be needed at some time to work on the tractors. It seems I also bought extension shafts for a ½ inch air tool and used one of those to get my 3/8 inch air wrench onto the battery case bolts and the steering housing bolts I loosened. A third arm would have been handy, but I managed. I coated the bolts with plenty of moly grease before tightening them in place. One of the bolts required me to re-cut the threads toward the head as the bolt had been under a lot of wear from that housing for years.

Anyway, as you can see in the pictures, the battery case is in place. I glued washers over the protruding rivets rather than cut them off.

Next… drain the oil, remove the governor and replace parts I bought to refurbish it. Actually it is a partial kit at about half the cost of a full rebuild kit (which is itself half the cost of a rebuilt governor). It seems I bought a parts cleaning tank which holds 20 gallons from Harbor freight just for the governor and all the other stuff I am going to be replacing, repairing, rebuilding, re-installing, and any other "re" I come across in my adventures.

Yes, this is what I do for fun, exercise, and mental challenge. By the way, we have had almost the average annual rainfall already and half that has happened in the past week. Boating anyone?

Tractor Boy

8N Success! Hooray!

2007-05-26T21:32:00.000-05:00

This evening I started putting the 8N back together again. The pictures show what I did today. It took me nearly a month to get through the broken off bolt which I never could get out of the tractor. This evening I used a new 3 inch air driven cut off tool to slice through the hardened bolt from Tractor Supply. I labeled all the pictures. I think the grommet and boot are a nice touch although probably not necessary.

Tomorrow after church I will continue with reassembly and put the battery shelf and air cleaner back on the 8N. I am using good moly grease on the bolts in hope they do not get stuck again. I am also cleaning the bolts and bolt holes (sometimes) using a tap and die set. It sure helps to have a lot of good tools.

Tractor Boy

Partial success!

2007-05-26T18:04:00.000-05:00

Today I got the new right angle attachment, bored out the hole to 3/8 inch and used a tap powered by a 7mm small wrench to re-cut the threads to 7/16X14 and after a few tries cut them through enough to insert the too long bolt I bought at Tractor Supply. Then I decided to clean the threads in an inconspicuous place - beneath the batter holder – and use the long bolt there instead. That way the visible bolt will be original. It seems the head of the bolt is larger than the new one I bought although both are 7/16 inchX14. Now it seems the depth of the cut threads in the location under the battery is less than the length of the bolt so I can either cut the threads further or cut off the bolt – maybe. I have an air cut off tool and three inch disks and so will give it a try since I bought two of those bolts so one could be a spare. Anyway, I got tired so decided to come in the house and rest. I believe I have some moly grease which I can put onto the threads of the bolts before putting them back in the engine and hopefully keep them from seizing again. It is progress. I also used a die to re-cut or refresh the threads on two of the bolts and will do the rest before putting them back. It just makes sense to me. I may also refresh the holes if I can get to them easily. I do need to find a leather glove as that small wrench hurts my hand now. It takes quite a bit of time to do this re-cutting yet it seems a good thing to do.

Only God knows what was on the bolt that broke off as I never did get it out. For practical purposes that no longer matters. I will be changing the oil for sure as there are steel pieces in the engine area from all the drilling and filing I have done. No one on earth knows when the oil was last changed on that engine since the man I bought it from did not do such things.

Tractor Boy

weather and tractor errata

2007-05-26T11:15:00.000-05:00

We have had major flooding in Killeen since Tuesday and last evening a tornado missed our house by just ¼ mile. It passed west of us after starting on the ground at Rancier and Twin Creek. I heard it, but did not see it. It sounded as though a freight train were traveling on 60 ^th Street. I was pretty sure that was a tornado. The sirens did not sound. The power went off, of course.

At least five people have died due to the rain. Flooding effected all major streets, and cars as well as walkers were swept away. Some folks are still missing. One car over toward Priest drive is still under water and too far from shore to hook a cable on it. We have exceeded the record rainfall for the month of May and have had more than half the annual rainfall already. The lake is up 12 feet since Tuesday, I think. At the start of the year it was 8 feet low. We have two more days of rain predicted and it rained hard this morning in the wee hours. It is not raining right this minute though. The ground is saturated so any rain tends to cause a flood. My yard has standing water in it of course.

The bolt is still stuck in the engine of the 8N tractor. I am going to see if I can drill it out enough to just recut the threads. Worst case, short of breaking a tap, is to enlarge the hole from 7/16 to ½ inch and just use a larger bolt in that one hole. Fortunately I have lots of different size left handed bits and maybe a miracle will happen and the bolt will finally come out. I have squirted a lot of PB Blaster and some Kroil penetrating oil yet the bolt has remained fast stuck. I have been working on it for a month so far. It does keep me off the street. Yesterday (Friday) I had the day off and much of it was used working on the tractor and dodging rain squalls.

It sure has greened up nicely.

Tractor Boy

tractor work (cont.)

2006-07-16T22:43:00.000-05:00

Picture 1423 shows the last of the row of stumps. In the foreground is the sub soiler device which I was about to remove and replace with a bar and chain to try dragging the stumps from the ground. 1425 is the fence line showing grooves made by the sub soiler on the 8N tractor. I hope I did not get anything vital other than bushes. J I hosed off the mud when I switched to a bar with clevis loop for the three point hitch.

Picture 1426 is a close up of the meter on the tractor. I replaced the broken one with a new one and have put 3.4 hours on the engine since then. Most of the engine time has been the fence and bush project done recently.

1428 shows the doors on my tractor building. The actual color is tan, not gray. The doors slide. Yes, they are two different sizes!

1432 shows the bar and chain attached to the last of the stump. It was three times that size and really stopped the tractor cold when using the sub soiler. I managed to jerk the stumps free using the chain wrapped around them. As soon as the chain slipped off, I would reverse and set it more underneath the stump. In three tries, the stumps were history. The chain with clevis hooks is the best that Tractor Supply Company sells.

After the stumps came out I decided to pull out the horizontal fence which I laid on the ground up against the vertical fence some 23 years ago with the help of my son. 1433 shows why you avoid coming too close to the PTO when it is running. I managed to back up, get the wire fence snagged by the PTO and end up with a lot of steel wrapped around the PTO. Fortunately I own at least one bolt cutter (I may have two) and used it to free the PTO. Had that been a loose shirt, the arm would have been mangled. Many a farmer has been there. I am extra careful and still it happened. Guess I better be extra extra careful.

Tractor Boy

Tractor building

2006-07-04T08:23:00.000-05:00

Here are some pictures taken late June of the progress on the tractor building.

The BIG thing I did yesterday was to use the 8N tractor to remove the fence on the East side of the back yard (pic 10). I then used the boom (pic 11) to remove the steel posts which have been in the ground since about 1983 (pic 12). All of them are bent to some extent. The hydraulic lift was unable to pull the posts straight up. I had great success putting the tractor in first gear and driving forward. The typical response was front wheels leave the ground then the pole is out of the ground. The last picture is the poles (pic 12). I suppose they can be straightened, probably best to heat them; however, they can be scrapped too.

I did notice there is no power steering! The old tractor started right off as soon as I replaced the ignition switch and added a new battery. I was able to recover the old battery power and will use it in the Ford 640 which has no battery at all right now.

Tractor Boy

tractor work

2006-07-03T18:10:00.000-05:00

My Huskvarna chain saw is still at the small engine repair place. They could not "figure it out" whatever that means. Does not sound good.

This afternoon I bought a new battery for my 8N Ford tractor while trying to charge the old battery. It finally charged before I got the new one installed so I installed the new one anyway. I changed the ignition switch earlier in the already hot day so was ready to replace the chipper with the boom and tackle fence removal. I was thinking I could use the PTO hydraulics and lift the fence, but most of all remove the steel posts which have been in the ground since almost 23 years. The little Ford was up to removing fence. It got exciting at times as I had the front end lifting so I could not steer. I conquered that and pulled all the fence on one side of the house.

Next came post removal. I had purchased a high quality bit of chain and some clevis hooks from Tractor supply so I rigged that to the end of a boom and wrapped chain around the first post. I was unable to pull hard enough to get the post to lift from the ground. Eventually I just put it in first gear and pulled forward. The front end lifted clear from the ground. I slowed and backed a bit. Usually it took just two tries and some times just one to bend the post and pull it free. So now I have thirteen bent steel posts lying in a pile. I did manage to pull two free by lifting. The little tractor just had too little power to lift the posts free of the ground, but I am sure glad I had a tractor to use or I would still be working on about number four post and not writing this. This was the most I had used the tractor. The second most was when I used the PTO to power my chipper and cut up some trees that had been cut.

Bill, I had two flat front tires although the tires and tubes were new this past year. I added 52 pounds of air to each and they did the job. Sure is a lot easier to steer when there is air in the front tires. It doesn't tear up the ground either like it did when they were flat. Oh one other thing. The tractor started immediately with choke on. I do need to work on the throttle as I can not throttle down, just up. It works its way down to lower speed if I lower the throttle, but not any where near as well as the 640 Ford does.

The tractor building is coming along. A small outside door was hung today, but the big sliding doors have not yet been hung. I selected location (again) for windows and air conditioner. If the weather cooperates maybe another week. The steel "I" beam will not get here until Thursday and it needs to be cut and welded for the over head lift I am creating. I have a 2 tin sliding dolly for the over head and a 2 ton chain lift. I decided to go with that instead of an electric lift that could pick up 880 pounds. Maybe later I will change my mind and get an electric lift. I can store two tractors and all my scooters and mowers, chain saws, gas weed eaters in the new tractor building and will be equipped to trickle charge all batteries. It is going to be nice.

Pictures to follow when I I get them out of the Sony camera (since the Minolta Z-10 was stolen).

Tractor Boy

Tractor building construction

2006-06-13T06:50:00.000-05:00

Construction is under way on the tractor building. The bees which were living under the building in the back ground are eliminated.

Nancy is standing there looking at the construction. The crew expects to get the roof on today so they can work in the shade. I think the criss crossed straps are to make the whole thing sturdier. That is a 15 X 30 foot slab and this will house two tractors as well as all my gas powered tools and an air conditioned shop at the South end which is not visible in the first picture. The second picture shows the pear tree for which I moved the slab site a few feet. I would have cut it down, but Nancy wanted me to leave it. To the far left is a peach tree which almost yields a peach each year. It gets the blossoms then the weather takes over and we seldom see a peach reach maturity.

Maybe in a week I can move in to this new building. More later…

Tractor Boy

Tractor pad with tractor

2006-04-08T18:52:00.000-05:00

I parked my first tractor on the new pad today. I may have made the pad too large. Time will tell. I guess I can park all my tractors at the same time.

That is a Ford – note the blue color.

Tractor Boy

Tractor pad and implements

2006-04-06T21:17:00.000-05:00

Here are my implements – a six foot rear blade, 8 foot boom, and 30 inch bucket. Each is for three point hitch. I also have a chipper on the 8N. The rusty hulk in the back ground is a 9N Ford which I intend to restore.

The tractor pad is 15 X 30 feet. In a week or so it will certainly be ready for a building. The partially filled in huge ruts are in the two photos.

Tractor Boy

Tractor pad part 2

2006-04-03T17:15:00.000-05:00

Here are the rest of the pictures.

Tractor Boy