Rebuild 8N throttle to governor

Today I decided to remove the "bracket" which attaches the throttle rod from the governor and rebuild the bolt which holds the bracket to the throttle rod at the steering column. I saw too much slack in the operation and watched the "bracket" not move when the throttle was being adjusted. I wanted to tighten that linkage so the throttle would be more responsive and be able to maximize the distance the governor to throttle arm would move. I am still seeking to get as close to 2,000 rpm as this old tractor will go.

It was not clear to me whether the ¼ inch thick carriage bolt holding the "bracket" to the throttle rod was original. It is too long and a huge challenge to get it in place and especially to remove it. I decided to shorten the length. While at it, I found a ¼ inch hex head bolt which had some of its shaft unthreaded. That could give better contact surface with the notch in the throttle shaft and help tighten the connection. In looking at the contact with the left side of the bracket it seemed the design could be improved so I did. I also improved the design of the carriage bolt at its head to get more close fitting. As long as I have a Dremel tool and plenty of cutting wheels as well as grind stones, it is not too difficult. I used a die set to clean up the threads and actually to add a couple threads to the hex head bolt.

It is back on the 8N with the hex head bolt in place of the carriage bolt.

Tractor Boy

new challenges

Tonight I took the throttle rod which was well painted and looked great and remounted it on the tractor. I loosened the nut which controls how far the governor to throttle rod will move so it can go as far as the shortened rod would pull it toward the rear. New challenge… the bolt which holds the right angle piece at the bottom of the throttle shaft allows that right angle piece to slip a bit. Fascinating to watch it do that, but I should like to tighten the connection. I think I need to make a new connecting bolt that is slightly greater in diameter so it fits the slot in the throttle shaft more tightly. I suppose I could get a new bolt or one just slightly larger in diameter. Of course I would need a new nut too. If you look where the throttle shaft connects to the right angle piece to which the rear end of the throttle to governor rod attaches, you will see just what I mean.

I love a new challenge and there are so many with this old 8N!

Tractor Boy

Progress on rod

Today, this morning, I examined the throttle rod and saw that the threaded end was bent so I used a Dremel tool to cut off the threaded end and re-threaded 10-32 which was the original size. With the 10-32 tap I chased the threads in the end piece and the tiny nut which is used to tighten the end piece (with the spring) on the rod. Finally I primed it and later painted the rod and end piece. It has been drying for a while. Probably ought to let it dry over night. So now I have a red throttle to governor rod which is approximately straight and on which the end turns easily. It is about ¾ inch shorter than the original. My hope is that I will be able to increase engine speed. J

Tractor Boy

throttle rod repair

I managed to break the rod which goes between the throttle and the governor on the 8N Ford while trying to shorten it.

It was also bent, but not by me.

I took it to Elija Baker, an old, old welder who is the best around. He welded it in less than ten minutes.

I straightened the rod and primed it. I will also cut off the good end and re-thread it to make it a bit shorter and be able to get more speed from the engine – I hope.

477 is the clamp which holds the exhaust pipe sections together. I moved it and re-tightened it so hopefully it no longer leaks (much) at that joint.

Tractor Boy

8N progress

This evening I decided to see whether the 8N Ford tractor would start since I refurbished the carburetor this week end.

It started right up. I needed to adjust the fuel mixture for both the idle and the main fuel. I did and it ran better. Starts like a real champ! There are still a few more adjustments to make to the fuel mixtures. Also, the idle speed screw is very close to hot engine parts and I managed to get it set much too fast. It is supposed to run at 400 rpm on lowest setting. That needs tweaking it was going at 1000 rpm because I miss-read the tachometer (called a Proof Meter by Ford). Also, I noted that part of the exhaust pipe is loose so I will remove a collar and reset it. It needs that anyway – more "chimp" work on the tractor before I got it. It is closer and closer to a like-new 55 year old tractor. I really enjoy working on it and restoring it! Lots more to do such as lights, cleaning, paint job, decals, hood name plate.

Tractor Boy

8N carburetor refurbish

Starting on Saturday morning, I removed, cleaned, refurbished, and replaced the carburetor on my 1952 8N Ford tractor. I have not started it yet since, but I saw no leaks. That must be a good sign. I took many pictures to help with reassembly. Here are a few.

Tractor Boy

Wednesday musings

In the midst (who talks like this anymore?) of cleaning up stuff I carried some more ammo back to the Tractor Building, soldered a broken wire on my grand daughter's electronic fairy wand, and started the 8N. The most important event was the soldering. J The 8N was second in import to me. Anyway, to make a short story long, I was attempting to start and run it with the fuel shut off so I could drain the gas from the fuel line to the carburetor before removing the carb to refurbish it. I guess the vacuum is such that the tractor will run just a short time – measured in seconds before it quits. After a while I gave up. At least I know the old 8N will start. It is too, too muddy to drive the tractor still. I guess it will be two or three more days before enough ground water either drains off or evaporates so I can actually drive the 8N. Mean time I can remove and service the carburetor.

There is an oil leak, apparently related to the governor so I wonder whether I did not get enough old seal off the housing or the tractor before reassembling the governor to the tractor. I will keep an eye on it and see if I can pin point the leak. Mean time I put a pan under the leak to keep it off the floor.

I was sure I had some 90 weight gear oil for the steering column, but so far have not found it. I am pretty sure I bought some as I can picture the container. Guess I can buy another container which is often how I find missing stuff – replace it and put the new next to the missing item while saying. "Oh, there it is!".

Time to get back to sorting stuff and getting it off the bedroom floor. I have enjoyed being out sick even with a sore throat from strep bacteria. The humidity is high and perspiration is great right now…

Tractor Boy

It runs!

I got the 8N running this morning just before the next rain. I first tested each spark plug wire for spark, then again checked the coil spark. All was working so I kept trying and finally turned on the fuel flow. Then I realized I had the throttle quite low so I boosted that to about ¾ full and gave it a choke. It ran pretty well. Low speed is 500 rpm and high speed is 1500 so I will adjust the carburetor and see whether I can get the range of 400 to 2,000 rpm like the book says. I think it has been five or six months since that tractor has run! I am happy!

Tractor Boy

8N re-wiring done

I did the re-wiring except that I attached P1 with the diode to the side of the ignition switch opposite what is in the drawing (pinkish wire). It ties in with the ammeter now. I am still getting a weak spark, but it is better than before and I no longer have 12 volts at the coil when the switch is open. Not supposed to have any volts there when the switch is open and that is the way it is now. I do not know why P1 is supposed to be like it is shown in the picture so it was easier to wire it as I did it.

Using my trusty feeler gauges, I discovered the point gap is .024 or .025 instead of .015 so that is the next thing to adjust. I put a trickle charger on the battery to bring it back to full charge. Still, I get to bump the starter until the points are at their widest opening, then using an .015 feeler gauge, I can loosen the screw on the points and set them at the proper gap. I may as well clean them too.

During the wiring process, before I put the white plug to P1 and P2 on the alternator, I used a set of genuine Chinese manufactured files to clean off the rust, paint, and years of corrosion from the contacts at P1 and P2. My ancient soldering gun made short work of connecting the wires including the diode. The silver ring on the diode goes toward the alternator. I think it limits which way current passes. Kind of a one way gate, I think.

Since the points are not properly gapped, I better check and re-gap the spark plugs too. All this before I even touch the carburetor. It seems I may need a new resistor and a new junction block (since I don't have one).

Well, except for the hard rain we got this evening, that is all the news that is fit to print. The news tonight said the parks are not likely to be open to boaters for the rest of the summer due to too much water to move and the parks have been flooded. Emily tried to go fishing today and learned she could not get to the lake. J I don't know whether she tried the other lake. We have two good sized lakes here.

Tractor Boy

electricion

Today I bought a diode and some of those circular end pieces (a Radio Shack sample) then got to work on the wiring of the 8N. I cleverly forgot to mark the position of the top bracket for the alternator so I could easily put it back with the correct tension on the belt. Oops. Anyway, I bought an alternator plug which goes onto P1 and P2 then soldered the diode to P1 and a ring thingy to the P2 wire which happens to be red. I then shifter wires from the ammeter to the switch ends and think I have it correct. I will go out later and put the alternator back in place then hook up the wires that go there. If the diode quits then next time I may wire further up the line. I can hardly wait to see what happens. I call it the "smoke test". If it smokes then it was connected wrong. In the instructions left by the fellow who answered my query, he said to put the resistor and P1 on the same side of the switch. I am not sure why and it was easier to put them on opposite sides so that is what I did. I refer to the ignition switch. Using my trusty multi-meter, I checked to make sure the connection were good and that I had moved the correct wires. Now I have one fewer wire on the ammeter than I did before. P1 is no longer going there. In theory I will see the ammeter move when the machine is charging. If it goes in the wrong direction I will simply switch the wires around.

Life is interesting, anyway. If all goes well electrically, including the voltage to the coil, then I can start working on the carburetor to clean it. I am going to check the points too since I am pretty sure I did not replace or check those on the 8N. I did it on one of the tractors and I do believe it was the 640.

It rained a bit today again. Not a storm, just a drizzle, but the yard is too wet to mow the grass. My yard is muddy. Very unusual for this time of year. We are supposed to get rain through Friday. Usually we get about 2 inches of rain in all of June; however, we got six inches this year. My grass is tall.

Tractor Boy

8N terminal block

Here is a picture from YT of the 8N terminal block. Part 8NNN14448A

It appears to be two isolated posts to which wires are attached. Is that correct?

Legend Parts sells it for about $14 and YT sells it for about $9.

I do believe I do not have one of these gadgets.

Tractor Boy