Rebuild 8N throttle to governor

Today I decided to remove the "bracket" which attaches the throttle rod from the governor and rebuild the bolt which holds the bracket to the throttle rod at the steering column. I saw too much slack in the operation and watched the "bracket" not move when the throttle was being adjusted. I wanted to tighten that linkage so the throttle would be more responsive and be able to maximize the distance the governor to throttle arm would move. I am still seeking to get as close to 2,000 rpm as this old tractor will go.

It was not clear to me whether the ¼ inch thick carriage bolt holding the "bracket" to the throttle rod was original. It is too long and a huge challenge to get it in place and especially to remove it. I decided to shorten the length. While at it, I found a ¼ inch hex head bolt which had some of its shaft unthreaded. That could give better contact surface with the notch in the throttle shaft and help tighten the connection. In looking at the contact with the left side of the bracket it seemed the design could be improved so I did. I also improved the design of the carriage bolt at its head to get more close fitting. As long as I have a Dremel tool and plenty of cutting wheels as well as grind stones, it is not too difficult. I used a die set to clean up the threads and actually to add a couple threads to the hex head bolt.

It is back on the 8N with the hex head bolt in place of the carriage bolt.

Tractor Boy

Farmall Cub Switch Replacement

It was a cold, wet, dreary day in Central Texas. Perfect weather in which to replace the light switch I replaced last week. The first replacement was blowing a 20-amp fuse in less than a second when turned to the farthest right position. Fortunately, I had added a separate fuse holder to the circuitry when the replacement did not have a fuse position. I spoke with the nice folk at Farmall Cub Forever and ordered a three position six-volt switch which arrived a few days ago. This time I took pictures so you can see what I was doing. Again, I replaced one wire at a time. The switch has a protrusion which fits in a notch in the console, and I replaced it so the two were properly aligned. I discovered it was easier to take the console off this time, and I did not need a small monkey to reach in the confined space. I did; however, forget that I placed a piece of board between the hydraulic housing and the hood/fuel tank. So, when I started up the Cub to see how well it would run, there...

Farmall Cub greasing

Replacing gear oil and greasing the ’49 Cub ought to be a straight forward task(s). Well it hasn’t been. The transmission fluid was tan, looking like tan paint. Folks on Yesterday’s Tractor Farmall forum said it meant water had got inside the transmission. I wonder whether this tractor was under water at one time. I bought a Spectricide brand insecticide pump, put kerosene in it, and flushed the transmission, then refilled with 90 weight gear oil. The gear oil looked like and had the consistency of thin honey. Pic 1300 shows the transmission filler plug. A lot easier to reach than the plug for emptying the transmission. Note it has a square head. All of these plugs are square headed. Three and a half pints later, the transmission was back together. After the transmission, I decided to check the steering gear oil. It was not tan. It was black as could be so I flushed the housing with kerosene again and refilled with ¾ pint of 90 weight gear oil and replaced the filler plug. Pic 1301 s...

Test Fuel Setup and Coil

The test fuel tank was in place and now the line is on the tractor. I put a petcock in the line so I can control fuel availability to the carburetor. On the carburetor itself there is a 5/16 threaded end to a ¼ inch hose attachment. Tomorrow I will add gasoline to the tank and start the Cub. The coil on this Cub was attached to the inside of the hood. Since the hood is off, I cleaned the mud from the two 5/16X18 threaded holes on the distributor and made a mount for the coil. I had some left over 5/16 thick aluminum which I milled a bit to make it look nicer and get rid of some very ugly edges. I used an end mill to cut holes for bolts, then used a tap to clean out the two holes on the distributor and attached the mount and then the coil. Original spark plug wires were dirty as well as yellow. I used a Dremel tool to clean inside the part which goes on the spark plug, and sand paper to clean the other end. The ohm meter showed the wires have about the same resist...

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