I did the re-wiring except that I attached P1 with the diode to the side of the ignition switch opposite what is in the drawing (pinkish wire). It ties in with the ammeter now. I am still getting a weak spark, but it is better than before and I no longer have 12 volts at the coil when the switch is open. Not supposed to have any volts there when the switch is open and that is the way it is now. I do not know why P1 is supposed to be like it is shown in the picture so it was easier to wire it as I did it.
Using my trusty feeler gauges, I discovered the point gap is .024 or .025 instead of .015 so that is the next thing to adjust. I put a trickle charger on the battery to bring it back to full charge. Still, I get to bump the starter until the points are at their widest opening, then using an .015 feeler gauge, I can loosen the screw on the points and set them at the proper gap. I may as well clean them too.
During the wiring process, before I put the white plug to P1 and P2 on the alternator, I used a set of genuine Chinese manufactured files to clean off the rust, paint, and years of corrosion from the contacts at P1 and P2. My ancient soldering gun made short work of connecting the wires including the diode. The silver ring on the diode goes toward the alternator. I think it limits which way current passes. Kind of a one way gate, I think.
Since the points are not properly gapped, I better check and re-gap the spark plugs too. All this before I even touch the carburetor. It seems I may need a new resistor and a new junction block (since I don't have one).
Well, except for the hard rain we got this evening, that is all the news that is fit to print. The news tonight said the parks are not likely to be open to boaters for the rest of the summer due to too much water to move and the parks have been flooded. Emily tried to go fishing today and learned she could not get to the lake. J I don't know whether she tried the other lake. We have two good sized lakes here.
Tractor Boy
